Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 · Chapters
Chapters explained
Chapter companions for Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 by Edward Whymper.
Chapter 1
Notes to the Preface of the Fifth Edition
Whymper provides updates on changes since earlier editions, including new inns and huts, map revisions, early ascents of the Aiguilles d'Arve, the death of Christian Almer, alterations on the southern side of the Matterhorn, Carrel's Gallery, and Sig. Guido Rey's exploration of the Furgg Ridge.
Chapter 2
Epigraph
The epigraph presents a reflection on the intertwined nature of toil and pleasure, suggesting they are necessarily connected despite their opposing qualities.
Chapter 3
Frontispiece
A brief note describes a fog-bow observed from the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865, which the Taugwalders associated with the subsequent accident.
Chapter 4
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69
This chapter recounts the author's early alpine adventures, including his commission to sketch Mont Pelvoux, the first ascent of that peak, and subsequent climbs and explorations in the Alps. It details the challenges of mountaineering, the camaraderie among climbers, and the scientific observations made during these expeditions.
Chapter 5
I: Introductory
Whymper recounts his early Alpine experiences in 1860, including a perilous solo crossing of the Gorner Glacier, a near-fatal jump over a crevasse, and a night lost in the forest near Zermatt. He also describes encounters with local peasants, a stranded curé, and the awe-inspiring views of the Weisshorn and Mischabel, setting the stage for his mountaineering career.
Chapter 6
II: The Ascent of Mont Pelvoux
Whymper describes the geography, history, and challenges of the Dauphiné Alps, focusing on Mont Pelvoux. He recounts his journey from Briançon, the inhospitable inns and suspicious locals, the tragic history of the Vaudois massacre, and the beginning of his ascent with Sémiond and others. The chapter highlights the region's rugged beauty, cultural isolation, and the personal difficulties of early mountaineering.
Chapter 7
The Mont Cenis—The Fell Railway—The Great Tunnel Through the Alps
Whymper describes the Mont Cenis pass, its transformation by Napoleon's road, and the subsequent Fell railway and the great Alpine tunnel. He details the engineering marvels, the dangers faced by workers, and the application of compressed air and hydraulic power, noting the low fatality rate and the successful junction of the tunnel in 1870.
Chapter 8
My First Scramble on the Matterhorn
Whymper describes his first encounter with the Matterhorn, its imposing appearance, local superstitions, and the history of early attempts to climb it, including those by the Parker brothers, Mr. Vaughan Hawkins, and Professor Tyndall. He also recounts his own initial efforts to hire guides in Val Tournanche and his meeting with Jean-Antoine Carrel.
Chapter 9
Renewed Attempts to Ascend the Matterhorn
In 1862, multiple attempts to climb the Matterhorn are described, including Mr. T. S. Kennedy's winter ascent from Zermatt, Professor Tyndall's reconnaissance and subsequent failure from the south, and the author's own solo reconnaissance on the southwest ridge. The chapter details the challenges of weather, rock conditions, and the psychological toll of repeated defeats, culminating in the author's solitary climb to a record height before retreating.
Chapter 10
The Val Tournanche—Direct Pass from Breuil to Zermatt (Breuiljoch)—Zermatt—Ascent of the Grand Tournalin
Whymper describes his return to Breuil after a six-day tour of the Matterhorn, the crossing of the Breuiljoch to Zermatt, and the ascent of the Grand Tournalin. He reflects on the geological features of the Gouffre des Busserailles and the gorge below the Gorner Glacier, contrasting water and glacial erosion. He also offers advice on mountain viewing, praising the Grand Tournalin's panoramic vista.
Chapter 11
VII: Our Sixth Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn
Whymper recounts the sixth attempt to ascend the Matterhorn, starting on August 10, 1865. The party, led by Carrel with Caesar Carrel, Luc Meynet, and two others, faces treacherous icy conditions on the Col du Lion and employs careful roped climbing techniques. A sudden storm forces them to camp below the Great Tower, where they endure a violent thunderstorm with close lightning and remarkable echoes. Whymper reflects on the storm's causes and returns to London, undeterred, to plan further attempts.
Chapter 12
From St. Michel on the Mont Cenis Road, by the Col des Aiguilles d’Arve, Col de Martignare, and the Brêche de la Meije, to La Bérarde
Whymper recounts a multi-day expedition through the Dauphiné Alps, crossing several passes and culminating at the Brêche de la Meije. The chapter describes the challenging terrain, the strategic planning with companions Moore and Walker, and the exceptional skill of guides Michel Croz and Christian Almer. It also reflects on the degradation of Alpine valleys due to deforestation and overgrazing, and includes a detailed topographical description of the peaks and glaciers encountered.
Chapter 13
IX: The Ascent of the Pointe des Écrins
Whymper and his party attempt the first ascent of the Pointe des Écrins, facing extreme ice, steep rock, and dangerous conditions. After a difficult climb, they reach the summit but find the descent even more perilous, forcing them to navigate a treacherous western arête.
Chapter 14
X: On the First Passage of the Col de Pilatte
Whymper and his party attempt a new pass over the Crête des Boeufs Rouges near Les Bans in the Dauphiné Alps. After a restful night at the chalets of Entraigues, they are joined by M. Jean Reynaud. They ascend a steep snow couloir to the summit of the pass, which they name the Col de Pilatte. The descent is hazardous, involving a 54° ice slope and a dramatic jump over a bergschrund, led by Michel Croz with Christian Almer as last man.
Chapter 15
Passage of the Col de Triolet, and First Ascents of Mont Dolent, Aiguille de Trélatête, and Aiguille d’Argentière
In 1864, Whymper recounts the inaccuracies in the mapping of the Mont Blanc chain, highlighting J. D. Forbes's earlier survey and Mr. Adams-Reilly's subsequent meticulous survey that corrected major errors, including the fictitious Pointe des Plines. The chapter describes the successful ascents of Mont Dolent, Aiguille de Trélatête, and Aiguille d’Argentière, with Reilly's perseverance and skill under harsh conditions. It also includes the passage of the Col de Triolet, encounters with a unique ice-arch, and a period of waiting in mist on Mont Suc.
Chapter 16
XII: The Moming Pass—Zermatt
Whymper recounts the attempt to cross the Moming Pass from Zinal to Zermatt with Moore, Almer, and Croz, including a perilous ice-slope crossing and a night in a squalid chalet. The chapter also describes a journey to Sierre and Zermatt, the social scene at the Monte Rosa hotel, and the abrupt end of Whymper's holiday due to disastrous news from home.
Chapter 17
XIII: The First Ascent of the Grand Cornier
Whymper describes his 1865 season, emphasizing his deliberate route selection based on snow and glacier travel rather than rocky arêtes. He recounts the first ascent of the Grand Cornier on June 16, 1865, via snow slopes and a southern approach, and reflects on the constant degradation of alpine ridges by sun and frost. The chapter also introduces his team—Croz, Almer, and Biener—and foreshadows the later Matterhorn disaster.
Chapter 18
The Ascent of the Dent Blanche
Whymper and his guides attempt the Dent Blanche, a notoriously difficult peak, facing extreme wind, cold, and technical challenges. They reach the summit ridge and find a cairn, confirming a prior ascent by T. S. Kennedy, but are forced to retreat without fully standing on the top. The descent is harrowing, with frostbite and exhaustion, but they survive and later meet Kennedy, who reveals the cairn was not his.
Chapter 19
Lost on the Col d'Hérens—My Seventh Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn
Whymper recounts a failed crossing of the Col d'Hérens due to a late start caused by Biener's delay and a sudden fog that disoriented the party. After hours of confused navigation, they were forced to retreat to Abricolla. The next day, they successfully crossed and examined a new route up the Matterhorn's eastern face, which Whymper favored over the southwestern ridge due to its deceptive gentleness and the dip of the strata. A reconnaissance up a gully was cut short by a stonefall, highlighting the dangers of the new approach.
Chapter 20
The Valley of Aosta, and Ascent of the Grandes Jorasses
Whymper examines the glacial theories of Professors Ramsay and Tyndall regarding the excavation of Alpine valleys, using the Valley of Aosta as a case study. He argues that the evidence from roches moutonnées, the mouths of valleys, and the inability of glaciers to remove loose river-gravel at Ivrea demonstrates that glaciers have only slightly modified pre-existing valley forms, not excavated them. The chapter includes a detailed critique of both theories and concludes that glaciers have extremely limited power for excavation.
Chapter 21
The First Passage of the Col Dolent
Whymper and his party attempt a new pass over the Col Dolent, hoping for a quicker route from Courmayeur to Chamounix. The ascent is straightforward, but the descent on the Argentière side reveals a treacherous ice slope at a 50° angle. The guides laboriously cut steps and navigate crevasses and schrunds, using ropes and ice-axes. After seven hours of descent, they reach the Argentière Glacier and arrive at Chamounix late at night, exhausted but successful.
Chapter 22
XVIII: Ascent of the Aiguille Verte
Whymper recounts the ascent of the Aiguille Verte with Christian Almer and Franz Biener after Michel Croz leaves for another engagement. The chapter details the journey over the Mer de Glace, observations on glacial stratification and blue ice veins, the summit success, and the subsequent controversy with Chamounix guides who disputed the ascent and challenged the party to a bet.
Chapter 23
XIX: The First Passage of the Col de Talèfre
Whymper recounts the first crossing of the Col de Talèfre on July 3, 1865, a new pass between the Aiguille de Triolet and the Aiguille de Talèfre, offering a quicker route from Chamounix to Courmayeur than the Col du Géant. The party navigated snow cascades, glissaded down avalanche debris, and completed the crossing in under ten hours.
Chapter 24
XX: The First Ascent of the Ruinette—The Matterhorn
Whymper and his guides ascend the Ruinette, then cross glaciers and passes toward Breuil. He discharges Almer and Biener after they refuse to attempt the Matterhorn, and seeks Carrel, who is unavailable. After a series of delays and deceptions, Whymper meets Lord Francis Douglas and learns of a possible route on the east face. They cross the Théodule, deposit supplies at the Schwarzsee, and engage old Peter Taugwalder. At Zermatt, they encounter Michel Croz, now engaged by Rev. Charles Hudson, who also plans to attempt the Matterhorn.
Chapter 25
The First Ascent of the Matterhorn
Whymper and his party successfully make the first ascent of the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865, after a relatively easy climb from the Swiss side. They reach the summit, plant a flag, and enjoy a panoramic view of the Alps, but the triumph is shadowed by the disappointment of the Italian party led by Carrel, who had long sought the ascent from the Italian side. The chapter ends with the beginning of the descent, foreshadowing the subsequent disaster.
Chapter 26
Descent of the Matterhorn
The chapter recounts the tragic descent from the Matterhorn's summit in 1865, where a slip by Mr. Hadow leads to a catastrophic fall, dragging Michel Croz, Rev. Charles Hudson, and Lord Francis Douglas to their deaths. The rope breaks, and only Edward Whymper, old Peter Taugwalder, and young Peter Taugwalder survive. The narrative reflects on the loss, the burial of the victims, and the broader lessons of mountaineering—courage, perseverance, and the need for prudence.
Chapter 27
The Death of Bennen
Mr. Gosset recounts the tragic ascent of the Haut de Cry on February 28, 1864, during which an avalanche was triggered on a steep snowfield. Despite warnings, the party continued, and the avalanche swept them down. Bennen and Mr. B⸺ perished, while Gosset and the other guides survived after a harrowing rescue.
Chapter 28
Struck by Lightning Upon the Matterhorn
Mr. R. B. Heathcote recounts his 1869 ascent of the Matterhorn via the southern route, during which he and his party were struck by lightning near the summit. The group descended safely but suffered various injuries from the electrical discharge.
Chapter 29
Subsequent History of the Matterhorn
This chapter details the development of routes on the Matterhorn after the first ascent, including the construction of huts, the opening of the Zermatt railway, and the establishment of marked paths. It recounts later ascents, such as Mr. Craufurd Grove's 1867 climb via the southern route, and describes tragic events like the deaths of Joseph Brantschen and others. The chapter also reflects on changes to the mountain's features over time, such as the decay of Whymper's tent-platform and the disappearance of the Chimney.
Chapter 30
D: Table of Attempts Made to Ascend the Matterhorn Previous to the First Ascent
This chapter is a chronological table listing all known attempts to ascend the Matterhorn before its first successful ascent in 1865. It details the dates, participants, sides attempted, heights reached, and remarks for each of the 14 recorded attempts, spanning from 1858 to 1865.
Chapter 31
E: Ascents of the Matterhorn
This chapter provides a chronological table of ascents of the Matterhorn from 1865 to 1880, listing the names of climbers, guides, routes taken, and brief remarks. It includes the first ascent by Lord Francis Douglas, D. Hadow, Charles Hudson, and Edward Whymper with guides Michel Croz and Peter Taugwalder, as well as subsequent ascents by various parties from both the Zermatt and Breuil sides.
Chapter 32
Courte Note sur la Géologie du Matterhorn
This chapter presents a geological analysis of the Matterhorn by Signor F. Giordano, describing its stratified sedimentary rocks, metamorphic structure, and the distinction between the base and the peak. It also recounts the tragic death of Giordano in 1892 after a fall, and includes a detailed reference to the geological section of the mountain.
Chapter 33
G: Stratification of Snow and Formation of Glacier-Ice
In this chapter, Whymper details his 1866 expedition to the Col de Valpelline, where he supervised the digging of a 22-foot pit in the Stock Glacier to study the transition of snow into glacier-ice. He describes the harsh weather, the physical labor, and his observations of horizontal ice strata and the onset of vertical glacification. The chapter concludes with reflections on the significance of these findings for understanding glacier structure and the veined structure.
Chapter 34
H: Denudation in the Valley of the Durance
In 1869, while walking up the Valley of the Durance, Whymper discovers remarkable natural pillars formed from an old moraine. He examines their composition, deduces their glacial origin, and discusses the processes of denudation by rain and running water, contrasting them with the formation of similar pillars near Botzen.
Chapter 35
Maps
This chapter presents a collection of maps and a vertical section of snow, illustrating the geography of the Valpelline, Valtournanche, Zermatt, Mont Blanc, and the Matterhorn regions.
Chapter 36
Endnotes
The endnotes provide supplementary details, corrections, and reflections on various events described in the main text, including observations on weather variability in the Alps, a personal account of a fall and its sensations, botanical notes, and technical advice on mountaineering equipment and techniques.
Chapter 37
List of Illustrations
This chapter provides a comprehensive list of illustrations included in the book, depicting landscapes, portraits, equipment, geological features, and key events from the author's alpine adventures.
