Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 · Chapter
XVIII: Ascent of the Aiguille Verte explained
Whymper recounts the ascent of the Aiguille Verte with Christian Almer and Franz Biener after Michel Croz leaves for another engagement.
What happens
Whymper recounts the ascent of the Aiguille Verte with Christian Almer and Franz Biener after Michel Croz leaves for another engagement. The chapter details the journey over the Mer de Glace, observations on glacial stratification and blue ice veins, the summit success, and the subsequent controversy with Chamounix guides who disputed the ascent and challenged the party to a bet.
Themes in this chapter
Exploration and Discovery
Whymper's successful first ascent of the Aiguille Verte and his detailed observations of glacial structure.
Scientific Observation
Whymper's analysis of glacier stratification, blue ice veins, and the effects of weathering on crevasses.
Human vs. Nature
The physical challenges of the ascent, including dangerous ice, crevasses, and the porter's consumption of all provisions.
Cultural Encounters and Superstition
Conflict with Chamounix guides who disputed the ascent and attempted to bully the foreign guides.
Characters to notice
- Edward Whymper
Narrator and leader of the ascent of the Aiguille Verte.
- Michel Croz
Parted from Whymper at the start of the chapter; waited for a new employer in Chamounix.
- Christian Almer
Became Whymper's leading guide for the ascent; described as a crack chamois-hunter and accomplished guide.
- Franz Biener
Porter on the ascent; ate all the provisions, causing hardship for the party.
- Mr. Adams-Reilly
Accompanied Whymper in inspecting the Aiguille Verte in 1864.
- T. S. Kennedy
Friend who defended Whymper's party against the Chamounix guides' accusations.
- Peter Perrn
Zermatt guide who warned of the planned harassment by Chamounix guides.
Key passages
“Michel Croz now parted from us. His new employer had not arrived at Chamounix, but Croz considered that he was bound by honour to wait for him, and thus Christian Almer, of Grindelwald, became my leading guide.”
Michel Croz left the party because he felt honor-bound to wait for his new employer in Chamounix, so Christian Almer took over as Whymper's main guide.
Explains the change in guides for the ascent.
“We set out upon the 28th from Chamounix to attack it; minus Croz, and plus a porter (of whom I will speak more particularly presently), leaving our comrade very downcast at having to kick his heels in idleness, whilst we were about to scale the most celebrated of his native Aiguilles.”
On the 28th, the party left Chamounix without Croz but with a new porter, while Croz was disappointed to be left behind as they attempted the famous Aiguille Verte.
Sets the stage for the ascent and Croz's frustration.
“Chamounix stood on its rights. A stranger had ignored their regulations, had imported two foreign guides, and, furthermore, he had added injury to that insult—he had not taken a single Chamounix guide.”
The people of Chamounix were offended because Whymper broke local rules by bringing foreign guides and not hiring any from Chamounix.
Highlights the local resentment toward Whymper's party.
