Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 · Chapter
Descent of the Matterhorn explained
The chapter recounts the tragic descent from the Matterhorn's summit in 1865, where a slip by Mr.
What happens
The chapter recounts the tragic descent from the Matterhorn's summit in 1865, where a slip by Mr. Hadow leads to a catastrophic fall, dragging Michel Croz, Rev. Charles Hudson, and Lord Francis Douglas to their deaths. The rope breaks, and only Edward Whymper, old Peter Taugwalder, and young Peter Taugwalder survive. The narrative reflects on the loss, the burial of the victims, and the broader lessons of mountaineering—courage, perseverance, and the need for prudence.
Themes in this chapter
Danger and Mortality
The sudden slip and fall of four climbers highlight the ever-present risk of death in mountaineering, culminating in a 4,000-foot plunge.
Companionship and Trust
The rope system and mutual reliance among the climbers are central; trust is broken by the rope's failure and the survivors' paralysis.
Personal Growth and Skill
Whymper reflects on the virtues of courage, patience, and fortitude gained through mountaineering, despite the tragedy.
Conquest and Perseverance
The Matterhorn is conquered but exacts a terrible revenge; Whymper emphasizes perseverance and the will to overcome obstacles.
Characters to notice
- Edward Whymper
Narrator and survivor; organizes descent, sketches summit, ties on last, witnesses fall, and reflects on tragedy.
- Michel Croz
Lead guide; places Hadow's feet, then slips and falls, dragging others down; body recovered and buried in Zermatt.
- Mr. Hadow
Inexperienced climber; slips and triggers the fatal fall; body recovered and buried.
- Rev. Charles Hudson
Third in line; dragged from steps after Hadow's slip; body recovered and buried.
- Lord Francis Douglas
Fourth in line; falls after Hudson; body never found.
- Peter Taugwalder
Old Peter; holds rope with Whymper after break; cries in terror; later descends with difficulty.
- Peter Perrn
Young Peter; tied to Whymper; paralyzed by fear, screams 'We are lost'; eventually descends.
- Alexandre Seiler
Hotel owner in Zermatt; receives news of avalanche from a boy.
Key passages
“Michel Croz had laid aside his axe, and in order to give Mr. Hadow greater security, was absolutely taking hold of his legs, and putting his feet, one by one, into their proper positions.”
Croz set down his axe and carefully guided Hadow's feet into secure positions to ensure his safety.
Describes the fatal moment of assistance just before the slip.
“I heard one startled exclamation from Croz, then saw him and Mr. Hadow flying downwards; in another moment Hudson was dragged from his steps, and Lord F. Douglas immediately after him.”
Whymper heard Croz cry out, then watched as Croz and Hadow fell, pulling Hudson and Lord Francis Douglas off the mountain.
Captures the rapid sequence of the fall.
“We held; but the rope broke midway between Taugwalder and Lord Francis Douglas.”
Whymper and old Peter held firm, but the rope snapped between Taugwalder and Lord Francis Douglas.
Key moment of the rope failure leading to the deaths.
“So perished our comrades! For the space of half-an-hour we remained on the spot without moving a single step.”
Whymper and the Taugwalders stood frozen in shock for thirty minutes after their companions fell.
Highlights the survivors' paralysis and grief.
“Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime.”
Whymper advises climbers that bravery and power are useless without caution, and a single careless moment can ruin everything.
Final moral lesson of the chapter.
