Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 · Chapter
Renewed Attempts to Ascend the Matterhorn explained
In 1862, multiple attempts to climb the Matterhorn are described, including Mr.
What happens
In 1862, multiple attempts to climb the Matterhorn are described, including Mr. T. S. Kennedy's winter ascent from Zermatt, Professor Tyndall's reconnaissance and subsequent failure from the south, and the author's own solo reconnaissance on the southwest ridge. The chapter details the challenges of weather, rock conditions, and the psychological toll of repeated defeats, culminating in the author's solitary climb to a record height before retreating.
Themes in this chapter
Conquest and Perseverance
The chapter repeatedly emphasizes the theme of persistence in the face of failure, as multiple climbers try again despite harsh conditions and previous defeats.
Danger and Mortality
The descriptions of wind, ice, and unstable rock highlight the constant physical danger faced by climbers, as well as the psychological impact of near-death experiences.
Scientific Observation
Whymper's detailed observations of rock quality, frost effects, and snow conditions reflect a scientific approach to mountaineering.
Characters to notice
- Edward Whymper
Narrator and climber; makes a solo reconnaissance on the southwest ridge, reaching a record height before turning back.
- T. S. Kennedy
Attempts a winter ascent of the Matterhorn from Zermatt in January 1862, building a cairn at 10,820 feet.
- Peter Perrn
Guide accompanying Kennedy on the winter attempt.
- Peter Taugwalder
Guide accompanying Kennedy on the winter attempt.
- Professor Tyndall
Described as having attempted the Matterhorn from Breuil in 1861; his guide Bennen reported the mountain too difficult.
- J. J. Bennen
Guide for Professor Tyndall; initially enthusiastic but later advised against the attempt.
- Reginald Macdonald
Companion of Whymper; agreed to join a renewed assault from the south.
- Jean-Antoine Carrel
Mentioned as part of the defeated party; hid his head after failure.
Key passages
“The wind whirled up the snow and spiculae of ice into our faces like needles, and flat pieces of ice a foot in diameter, carried up from the glacier below, went flying past.”
The wind blasted snow and ice needles into their faces, and large flat ice chunks from the glacier flew by.
Describes the harsh winter conditions faced by Kennedy's party.
“I felt like a man whose grip had given way, and who was dropping through the air.”
Tyndall felt a sudden loss of hope, as if falling through the air after losing his hold.
Tyndall's reaction to Bennen's discouraging report.
“In the whole range of my Alpine experience I have seen nothing more striking than this desolate, ruined, and shattered ridge at the back of the Great Tower.”
Whymper considers this ridge the most impressive example of frost's destructive power he has ever seen in the Alps.
Whymper's awe at the geological effects on the Matterhorn.
