Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 · Chapter
The First Ascent of the Matterhorn explained
Whymper and his party successfully make the first ascent of the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865, after a relatively easy climb from the Swiss side.
What happens
Whymper and his party successfully make the first ascent of the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865, after a relatively easy climb from the Swiss side. They reach the summit, plant a flag, and enjoy a panoramic view of the Alps, but the triumph is shadowed by the disappointment of the Italian party led by Carrel, who had long sought the ascent from the Italian side. The chapter ends with the beginning of the descent, foreshadowing the subsequent disaster.
Themes in this chapter
Conquest and Perseverance
The successful ascent represents the triumph of human will over a previously unconquered peak, contrasting with Carrel's long but ultimately unsuccessful pursuit.
Exploration and Discovery
The chapter details the discovery of a feasible route up the Matterhorn's eastern face and the awe-inspiring panoramic view from the summit.
Companionship and Trust
The camaraderie among the climbers is evident in their shared camp, songs, and coordinated efforts, as well as Whymper's respect for Carrel.
Characters to notice
- Edward Whymper
Leader of the expedition, describes the ascent and the emotional moment of reaching the summit.
- Michel Croz
Key guide who plants the flag on the summit and assists in the ascent.
- Peter Taugwalder
Old Peter, guide who accompanied the party with his sons.
- Lord Francis Douglas
Member of the climbing party, present on the summit.
- Rev. Charles Hudson
Member of the climbing party, helped make tea in camp.
- Jean-Antoine Carrel
Leader of the Italian party, seen from the summit; Whymper acknowledges his lifelong ambition.
Key passages
“We remained on the summit for one hour— “One crowded hour of glorious life.””
They spent a single, intensely fulfilling hour at the top.
Whymper quotes a line to express the profound experience of the summit.
“Still, I would that the leader of that party could have stood with us at that moment, for our victorious shouts conveyed to him the disappointment of the ambition of a lifetime.”
Whymper wished Carrel could have shared the summit, knowing his shouts signaled Carrel's failed lifelong dream.
Reflects Whymper's empathy for Carrel's dedication and loss.