Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 · Chapter
IX: The Ascent of the Pointe des Écrins explained
Whymper and his party attempt the first ascent of the Pointe des Écrins, facing extreme ice, steep rock, and dangerous conditions.
What happens
Whymper and his party attempt the first ascent of the Pointe des Écrins, facing extreme ice, steep rock, and dangerous conditions. After a difficult climb, they reach the summit but find the descent even more perilous, forcing them to navigate a treacherous western arête.
Themes in this chapter
Conquest and Perseverance
The party's relentless effort to summit the Écrins despite extreme ice, steep slopes, and dangerous conditions exemplifies the drive to conquer.
Danger and Mortality
The descent is marked by life-threatening situations, including a precarious jump across a notch and the risk of falling into the Glacier Noir.
Human vs. Nature
The climbers battle the mountain's icy face, rotten rock, and avalanches, highlighting the struggle against natural forces.
Companionship and Trust
The team relies on each other's skills and judgment, especially during the dangerous descent, where guides and climbers work in unison.
Characters to notice
- Edward Whymper
Narrator and leader of the expedition, describes the ascent and descent of the Écrins.
- Michel Croz
Guide who cuts steps on the hard ice and later assists in the descent.
- Christian Almer
Guide who relieves Croz in cutting steps and leads the descent, making a dangerous jump across a notch.
- Mr. Moore
Member of the party who agrees with Walker and Whymper to avoid descending via the 'last rocks.'
- Horace Walker
Member of the party who concurs with Moore and Whymper about the descent route.
- Peter Perrn
Guide who assists in the descent of the couloir during the reconnaissance.
Key passages
“It was evident thus early that the ascent would not be accomplished without exertion, and that it would demand all our faculties and all our time.”
From the start, it was clear that climbing the mountain would require great effort and full concentration.
Whymper sets the tone for the chapter, emphasizing the challenge ahead.
“Croz’s blood was up, and indignant at this slight on his powers, he ceased working, turned in his steps, and rushed towards me with a haste that made me shudder: 'By all means let us go there, the sooner the better.'”
Croz became angry when his ice-cutting was questioned, and he stormed back toward Whymper in frustration.
Shows the tension and pride among the guides during the difficult ascent.
“Had anyone then said to me, 'You are a great fool for coming here,' I should have answered with humility, 'It is too true.'”
Whymper felt so overwhelmed by the danger that he would have agreed with anyone calling him foolish for attempting the climb.
Reflects the extreme peril of the descent and Whymper's regret.