Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 · Chapter
Endnotes explained
The endnotes provide supplementary details, corrections, and reflections on various events described in the main text, including observations on weather variability in the Alps, a personal account of a fall and its sensations, botanical not
What happens
The endnotes provide supplementary details, corrections, and reflections on various events described in the main text, including observations on weather variability in the Alps, a personal account of a fall and its sensations, botanical notes, and technical advice on mountaineering equipment and techniques.
Themes in this chapter
Danger and Mortality
Whymper's detailed account of his fall and his reflections on the painlessness of death from great heights underscore the ever-present mortal risks in mountaineering.
Scientific Observation
The endnotes include botanical lists, barometric measurements, and descriptions of electrical phenomena, demonstrating a systematic approach to alpine science.
Personal Growth and Skill
Whymper's advice on tent construction, glissading technique, and rope management reflects the development of practical mountaineering skills.
Characters to notice
- Edward Whymper
Author and narrator; reflects on his fall, memory loss, and botanical collections.
- T. S. Kennedy
Mentioned for his first ascent of the Dent Blanche in severe weather, described in the Alpine Journal.
- Jean-Antoine Carrel
Whymper learned from him about higher ascents on the Matterhorn and his initials found on rocks.
- Professor Tyndall
Mentioned in relation to earlier Matterhorn attempts and mistaken belief about the mountain having two summits.
- J. J. Bennen
Excepted from a general statement; also noted as mistaken about the Matterhorn's summit.
- Signor F. Giordano
His barometric measurements of the Matterhorn are cited for heights.
- Principal J. D. Forbes
His experience of electrical sounds on the same pass is referenced.
- Watson
Dr. R. Spence Watson's experience of electrical phenomena on the Aletsch Glacier is noted.
Key passages
“the Alps, the uncertainty of the weather, is here almost entirely wanting.”
The author notes that in the Alps, the unpredictability of weather is almost completely absent.
Whymper challenges this opinion by citing examples of violent storms at high altitudes while valleys remain calm.
“I was perfectly conscious of what was happening, and felt each blow; but, like a patient under chloroform, experienced no pain.”
During his fall, Whymper was fully aware and felt each impact, yet felt no pain, similar to being under anesthesia.
He describes the sensation of falling and the lack of pain, comparing it to a chloroformed patient.
“The only serious effect has been the reduction of a naturally retentive memory to a very commonplace one;”
The only lasting consequence of the fall was that his previously excellent memory became ordinary.
Whymper notes that his memory of the day's events would be lost without his notes.
“My experience goes to show that poles which (when supported upon their extremities) will bear a dead weight of 100 lbs. suspended from their centres, will stand any wind to which they are likely to be submitted.”
Whymper recommends testing tent poles by suspending 100 pounds from their centers to ensure they can withstand any wind.
He provides practical advice for constructing durable tents for long-term use.
