Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 · Chapter
XX: The First Ascent of the Ruinette—The Matterhorn explained
Whymper and his guides ascend the Ruinette, then cross glaciers and passes toward Breuil.
What happens
Whymper and his guides ascend the Ruinette, then cross glaciers and passes toward Breuil. He discharges Almer and Biener after they refuse to attempt the Matterhorn, and seeks Carrel, who is unavailable. After a series of delays and deceptions, Whymper meets Lord Francis Douglas and learns of a possible route on the east face. They cross the Théodule, deposit supplies at the Schwarzsee, and engage old Peter Taugwalder. At Zermatt, they encounter Michel Croz, now engaged by Rev. Charles Hudson, who also plans to attempt the Matterhorn.
Themes in this chapter
Exploration and Discovery
Whymper's systematic approach to bagging peaks and finding new routes, including the first ascent of the Ruinette and the planned attempt on the Matterhorn.
Danger and Mortality
The crevasse incident on the Otemma Glacier and the ever-present risks of glacier travel and rock climbing.
Companionship and Trust
Whymper's reliance on guides like Almer and Biener, and the shifting alliances and engagements as he seeks a team for the Matterhorn.
Personal Growth and Skill
Whymper's reflections on the use of the rope and the value of experience in mountaineering.
Characters to notice
- Edward Whymper
Narrator and leader of the expedition; plans the ascent of the Matterhorn via the east face.
- Christian Almer
Guide who refuses to attempt the Matterhorn; discharged by Whymper at Breuil.
- Franz Biener
Guide who, with Almer, declines the Matterhorn attempt; discharged at Breuil.
- Jean-Antoine Carrel
Sought by Whymper but unavailable; later seen carrying barometers for a foreign gentleman.
- Lord Francis Douglas
Young Englishman who joins Whymper's expedition; brings news of a possible route on the east face.
- Michel Croz
Former guide of Whymper, now engaged by Rev. Charles Hudson; encountered at Zermatt.
- Rev. Charles Hudson
English clergyman who plans to attempt the Matterhorn with Croz; met at the Monte Rosa Hotel.
- Peter Taugwalder
Engaged by Whymper as a guide for the Matterhorn attempt; reported a possible route on the east face.
Key passages
“In almost every art, experience is worth more than precepts.”
Practical experience surpasses theoretical rules in any skill.
Opening epigraph from Quintilian, setting the tone for the chapter.
“Anything but Matterhorn, dear sir! ... Anything but Matterhorn.”
Almer begged Whymper to attempt any peak except the Matterhorn.
Almer's reluctance to attempt the Matterhorn.
“I was in the position of a general without an army; it was all very well to make plans, but there was no one to execute them.”
Whymper had no porters available to carry his equipment, frustrating his plans.
Whymper's difficulty in finding men to assist with the Matterhorn attempt.
