Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 · Chapter
D: Table of Attempts Made to Ascend the Matterhorn Previous to the First Ascent explained
This chapter is a chronological table listing all known attempts to ascend the Matterhorn before its first successful ascent in 1865.
What happens
This chapter is a chronological table listing all known attempts to ascend the Matterhorn before its first successful ascent in 1865. It details the dates, participants, sides attempted, heights reached, and remarks for each of the 14 recorded attempts, spanning from 1858 to 1865.
Themes in this chapter
Conquest and Perseverance
The table documents repeated efforts over seven years to conquer the Matterhorn, highlighting the persistence of climbers despite numerous failures.
Danger and Mortality
The attempts were fraught with peril, as evidenced by the modest heights reached and the reliance on guides and porters to navigate dangerous terrain.
Characters to notice
- Jean-Antoine Carrel
Participated in attempts 1, 5, 9, 10, 12, and 13, often as a guide or porter.
- Edward Whymper
Made attempts 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, and 14, often alone or with guides.
- J. J. Bennen
Guided attempts 3 and 12.
- Luc Meynet
Served as guide or porter in attempts 10, 11, 13, and 14.
- Michel Croz
Guided attempt 14 in 1865.
- Christian Almer
Guided attempt 14 in 1865.
Key passages
“No. of Attempt. Date. Names. Side upon which the attempt was made, and place arrived at. Greatest height attained. Remarks.”
The table organizes each attempt by number, date, participants, the side of the mountain attempted, the highest point reached, and additional notes.
This header explains the structure of the table.
“1 1858 – 9 J. -Antoine Carrel. J. -Jacques Carrel. Victor Carrel. Gab. Maquignaz. Abbé Gorret. Breuil side “Chimney.” 12,650 Several attempts were made before this height was attained; the men concerned cannot remember how many.”
The first recorded attempt, between 1858 and 1859, involved several Italian guides and reached the 'Chimney' at 12,650 feet on the Breuil side, though earlier unrecorded attempts had also been made.
This entry shows the earliest documented effort.
“12 July 27 – 28 J. Tyndall Breuil side “The shoulder+,” to foot of final peak. 13,970 Guides— J. J. Bennen and Anton Walter; porters— J. -Antoine Carrel, Caesar Carrel, and another.”
In July 1862, Professor Tyndall led an attempt that reached the shoulder at 13,970 feet, the highest point achieved before the first ascent.
This was the closest any attempt came to the summit before 1865.