Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 · Chapter
From St. Michel on the Mont Cenis Road, by the Col des Aiguilles d’Arve, Col de Martignare, and the Brêche de la Meije, to La Bérarde explained
Whymper recounts a multi-day expedition through the Dauphiné Alps, crossing several passes and culminating at the Brêche de la Meije.
What happens
Whymper recounts a multi-day expedition through the Dauphiné Alps, crossing several passes and culminating at the Brêche de la Meije. The chapter describes the challenging terrain, the strategic planning with companions Moore and Walker, and the exceptional skill of guides Michel Croz and Christian Almer. It also reflects on the degradation of Alpine valleys due to deforestation and overgrazing, and includes a detailed topographical description of the peaks and glaciers encountered.
Themes in this chapter
Exploration and Discovery
The chapter details the planning and execution of a new route through uncharted passes, with a focus on topographical observation and the thrill of crossing the Brêche de la Meije.
Human vs. Nature
The harsh, chaotic terrain of the Vallon des Étançons and the degradation of the valley illustrate the struggle against a wild and unforgiving environment.
Companionship and Trust
Whymper emphasizes the perfect combination of guides Croz and Almer, and the collaborative spirit among the party members.
Scientific Observation
Whymper calculates the mean angle of the ascent and reflects on geological and environmental changes in the valley, citing Blanqui's scientific address.
Characters to notice
- Edward Whymper
Narrator and leader of the expedition, reflecting on past attempts and planning the current route.
- Michel Croz
Guide praised for his strength, skill, and enthusiasm; described as 'the man who was most after my own heart.'
- Christian Almer
Guide of Moore and Walker, noted for his unruffled temper and safe, obliging nature.
- Mr. Moore
Friend and fellow mountaineer who jointly planned and executed the excursions with Whymper.
- Horace Walker
Friend and fellow mountaineer who joined the united party for the expedition.
- Mr. Tuckett
Mentioned as a previous explorer in Dauphiné who attempted the Pointe des Écrins but withdrew.
- Mr. Mathews
Provided information about Michel Croz and attempted the ascent of the Écrins with Bonney.
- Mr. Bonney
Companion of Mathews in a previous attempt on the Écrins; mentioned as having reported no difficulty on the descent from the Brêche.
Key passages
“it was impossible to take the eyes from the feet, and if an unlucky individual so much as blew his nose, without standing still to perform the operation, the result was either an instantaneous tumble, or a barked shin, or a half-twisted ankle. There was no end to it, and we became more savage at every step, unanimously agreeing that no power on earth would ever induce us to walk up or down this particular valley again.”
The terrain was so treacherous that any distraction, even blowing one's nose while walking, caused falls or injuries, leading the party to vow never to traverse that valley again.
Describes the extreme difficulty and frustration of navigating the Vallon des Étançons.
“so rotten that it seemed as if a puff of wind or a clap of thunder might dash the whole fabric to pieces”
The mountain appeared so unstable that a gust of wind or thunderclap could cause it to collapse entirely.
Whymper's vivid description of the Rateau's fragile appearance from the Brêche.
