Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 · Chapter
VII: Our Sixth Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn explained
Whymper recounts the sixth attempt to ascend the Matterhorn, starting on August 10, 1865.
What happens
Whymper recounts the sixth attempt to ascend the Matterhorn, starting on August 10, 1865. The party, led by Carrel with Caesar Carrel, Luc Meynet, and two others, faces treacherous icy conditions on the Col du Lion and employs careful roped climbing techniques. A sudden storm forces them to camp below the Great Tower, where they endure a violent thunderstorm with close lightning and remarkable echoes. Whymper reflects on the storm's causes and returns to London, undeterred, to plan further attempts.
Themes in this chapter
Conquest and Perseverance
Whymper's relentless pursuit of the summit despite repeated failures and dangerous conditions.
Danger and Mortality
The party faces icy slopes, a near-fatal slip, and a violent thunderstorm with close lightning strikes.
Scientific Observation
Whymper analyzes the thunderstorm, echoes, and cloud formation, citing Arago and proposing causes for the cold downdrafts.
Characters to notice
- Edward Whymper
Narrator and leader of the expedition, describes the climb and storm.
- Jean-Antoine Carrel
Lead guide who chose the team and demonstrated skill after a slip on ice.
- Caesar Carrel
Relative of Carrel, part of the climbing party.
- Luc Meynet
One of the guides selected by Carrel for the attempt.
Key passages
“Carrel had carte blanche in the matter of guides, and his choice fell upon his relative Caesar, Luc Meynet, and two others whose names I do not know.”
Carrel was given full authority to select the guides, and he chose his relative Caesar, Luc Meynet, and two unnamed men.
Highlights Carrel's leadership role in assembling the team.
“He stepped on some snow which seemed firm, and raised his axe to deliver a swinging blow, but, just as it was highest, the crust of the slope upon which he stood broke away... Carrel, with admirable readiness, flung himself back on to the rock off which he had stepped, and was at once secured.”
Carrel stepped on seemingly solid snow that gave way, but he quickly threw himself back onto the rock and was secured by the rope.
Demonstrates Carrel's quick reflexes and the importance of the rope.
“The thunder was simultaneous with the flashes; short and sharp, and more like the noise of a door that is violently slammed, multiplied a thousandfold, than any noise to which I can compare it.”
The thunder came instantly with the lightning, sounding like a door slammed thousands of times louder.
Whymper's vivid description of the storm's intensity.