Travel Essays · Chapters
Chapters explained
Chapter companions for Travel Essays by Robert Louis Stevenson.
Chapter 1
An Inland Voyage
The chapter opens with a poetic epigraph from Marvell, setting a reflective tone for the journey ahead. It introduces the beginning of an inland voyage, likely by canoe, through the waterways of France, emphasizing the spirit of travel and discovery.
Chapter 2
To Sir Walter Grindlay Simpson, Bart.
Stevenson dedicates the chapter to Sir Walter Grindlay Simpson, recalling their shared adventures and misadventures on the river, including the procurement and eventual loss of their canal barge, the Eleven Thousand Virgins of Cologne, and the subsequent sale of their boats, the Arethusa and the Cigarette.
Chapter 3
Preface to the First Edition
In the preface, Stevenson humorously reflects on the act of writing a preface, comparing it to an architect showing off plans. He confesses his fear that his book may go unread and offers it as a light, unphilosophical work, thanking his traveling companion for at least being a reader.
Chapter 4
Antwerp to Boom
The chapter describes the departure from Antwerp docks with the canoes Arethusa and Cigarette, the author's first experience sailing a canoe, reflections on courage and self-discovery, the journey up the Scheldt and Rupel rivers, and the arrival at Boom with its brickyards and the disappointing Hôtel de la Navigation.
Chapter 5
On the Willebroek Canal
The travelers navigate the Willebroek Canal in rain and wind, observing the leisurely life of bargees and enduring a comically disastrous lunch ashore before paddling onward toward Brussels.
Chapter 6
The Royal Sport Nautique
The narrator and his companion arrive in Brussels after a rainy journey, struggling to find a place to land their canoes. They are rescued by members of the Royal Sport Nautique, a Belgian boating club, who warmly welcome them, dry their gear, and offer hospitality. The narrator reflects on the genuine enthusiasm and camaraderie of the young sportsmen, contrasting their pure love of boating with the dullness of commerce and middle age. Despite the kindness, the narrator and his friend feel overwhelmed by the youthful zeal and the prospect of rowing with the champion canoeist, leading them to flee the next morning.
Chapter 7
At Maubeuge
The travelers decide to take a train across the frontier due to the many locks between Brussels and Charleroi. The narrator describes the difficulty of passing through customs, especially for the Arethusa, who is repeatedly mistaken for a spy. Upon arriving in Maubeuge, a fortified town, they find little to do but eat and observe. The narrator reflects on the experience of being a detached spectator in a strange town and recounts a poignant encounter with the hotel omnibus driver, who longs for travel and adventure.
Chapter 8
On the Sambre Canalised: To Quartes
The narrator and the Cigarette depart from the Grand Cerf, battling rain and wind as they travel through a blighted industrial landscape. After receiving help from grimy workmen at Hautmont, the weather clears, revealing a serene pastoral scene along the Sambre River. They encounter fishermen and later, at Quartes, a group of children and a young woman who engage them in friendly conversation, admiring their canoes and gear.
Chapter 9
Pont-sur-Sambre: We Are Pedlars
The narrator and the Cigarette arrive at Pont-sur-Sambre, seeking lodging after being turned away from several inns. They are mistaken for pedlars by the locals, leading to a humbling experience of class distinction as they share a meal with poorer laborers. The chapter reflects on the discomfort of witnessing poverty firsthand and the social hierarchies that persist even among the lower classes.
Chapter 10
Pont-sur-Sambre: The Travelling Merchant
The narrator and his companion, mistaken for pedlars, encounter a genuine travelling merchant, Monsieur Hector Gilliard, his wife, and their young son at an alehouse in Pont-sur-Sambre. The Gilliards are a warm, loving family, and their presence humanizes the company. The narrator reflects on social distinctions, the joys of the child's holiday life, and the essential goodness found in simple, honest people.
Chapter 11
On the Sambre Canalised: To Landrecies
The narrator and the Cigarette continue their canoe journey along the Sambre canal, enduring rain and locks. The narrator reflects on the beauty of the forest of Mormal, contrasting nature's majesty with human pettiness. He encounters a mocking old man who disparages their voyage, but is heartened by two young men who defend it. The chapter ends with their departure from Pont, observed by amazed locals.
Chapter 12
At Landrecies
The travelers arrive in Landrecies, where they unexpectedly become local celebrities. They are invited to sup with the Juge de Paix, enjoy a convivial evening of wine and conversation, and spend a restful day in the garrison town, reflecting on the fortifications, the drum, and the nature of heroism.
Chapter 13
Sambre and Oise Canal: Canal Boats
The narrator and the Cigarette paddle along the Sambre and Oise Canal, observing the lively barge communities. They dream of a leisurely old age on the canals, and the narrator visits a friendly barge couple who boast of their happy life despite modest means, contrasting French pride with English discontent.
Chapter 14
The Oise in Flood
The narrator and the Cigarette navigate the swollen Oise River by canoe, experiencing both the terror and exhilaration of the swift current. After a cold and exhausting start, they launch at Vadencourt and race downstream, feeling alive and defiant against death. They pause in a meadow to enjoy the sunshine and bells, then resume their journey as the river grows more dangerous.
Chapter 15
Origny Sainte-Benoîte: A By-Day
The narrator spends a Sunday in Origny Sainte-Benoîte, observing the local church services, a hawker's patriotic song, and the community's interest in his canoe. He reflects on French patriotism after the Franco-Prussian War, the poetry of labour, and the etiquette of the village. The day ends with a balloon sighting and a moonlit return to the inn.
Chapter 16
Origny Sainte-Benoîte: The Company at Table
The narrator describes a late dinner at Origny Sainte-Benoîte, where the company includes a boisterous French hunter, a quiet Dane-like man, and the landlady's husband—a passionate proletarian who dominates the conversation with his loud opinions on hunting, Paris, and logic. The talk turns to politics and liberty of opinion in France, revealing the sad Northman's martyrdom for his political beliefs, which the Scots initially mistake for religious persecution.
Chapter 17
Down the Oise: To Moy
The narrator reflects on the transient nature of life and the river Oise, describing the journey from Origny to Moy. They encounter a canal siphon, meet a gentleman on the towpath, and witness the Cigarette's strange lying fit. At Moy, they stay at the Golden Sheep inn, where the landlady's cooking impresses them. The chapter also recounts the humiliation of Carnival, who attempted to cheat them, and the fond farewell from the young ladies of Origny.
Chapter 18
La Fère of Cursed Memory
The narrator and the Cigarette linger in Moy before a short journey to La Fère, where they are rudely turned away from an inn by the landlady. After wandering the town in the rain, they find lodging at Bazin's inn, where the host's kindness and domestic happiness restore their spirits.
Chapter 19
Down the Oise: Through the Golden Valley
The narrator describes a journey down the Oise River through the Golden Valley, a pastoral region below La Fère. The landscape is rich with grazing animals, and a thunderstorm combined with artillery practice startles the herds, creating a dramatic scene. The river carries the narrator and the Cigarette through alternating sun and showers, with the narrator's discomfort from the rain amusing his companion.
Chapter 20
Noyon Cathedral
The narrator describes the town of Noyon, dominated by its grand cathedral, which he compares to a battleship. He explores the cathedral, reflects on its majesty and the inadequacy of sermons compared to its silent preaching, and observes a religious service that he finds both solemn and marred by mundane distractions.
Chapter 21
Down the Oise: To Compiègne
The chapter describes the final leg of the journey down the Oise River to Compiègne, marked by persistent rain that finally gives way to fair weather. The travelers, weary from the wet, stop at an inn in Pimprez, where they lament their misfortunes. As the weather clears, the river becomes broader and more tranquil, and the canoes are carried gently downstream. The chapter ends with their arrival at Compiègne at sunset, where they are observed by locals.
Chapter 22
At Compiègne
The narrator describes his stay in Compiègne, observing the militaristic atmosphere and comparing French soldiers unfavorably to British Highlanders. He delights in the town hall's Gothic architecture and its mechanical clock figures, and reflects on how receiving letters breaks the spell of travel. The chapter ends with an early morning departure, unnoticed by the town.
Chapter 23
Changed Times
The narrator reflects on how the character of the journey changes as the Oise widens and they enter more civilized, populated areas. The sense of romance and intimacy with strangers fades, replaced by a dull, golden stupor. The chapter explores the ecstatic, mindless state of paddling, where the self dissolves and the body acts on its own, leading to a profound, almost Buddhist detachment.
Chapter 24
Down the Oise: Church Interiors
The narrator describes a cold morning paddle from Compiègne to Pont Sainte Maxence, with a focus on visits to churches at Pont Sainte Maxence and Creil. He reflects on the mechanical piety of an old woman at prayer, the commercialized religiosity of votive offerings and indulgences, and the contrast between the serene river journey and the hollow rituals observed. The chapter ends with a meditation on the limits of Protestant understanding of Catholic devotion.
Chapter 25
Précy and the Marionnettes
The narrator arrives at Précy at sundown, observing the tranquil landscape and a group of girls playing croquet. He dines at a poor inn run by a brother and sister, then attends a marionnette show where the showman and his wife struggle with an uncooperative audience. The chapter reflects on the nature of performance, the vanity of artists, and the charm of wandering entertainers like M. de Vauversin.
Chapter 26
Back to the World
The narrator reflects on the final two days of sailing down the Oise, describing the serene landscape and his growing weariness with the solitary journey. He expresses a desire to return to civilization and the familiar, and decides to end the canoe voyage at Pontoise, feeling a sense of separation from the river that had carried him so far.
Chapter 27
Epilogue to An Inland Voyage
The epilogue recounts the journey of the Arethusa and the Cigarette through the Loing valley after their canoe trip. The Arethusa, poorly dressed and carrying a book of Charles of Orléans, is mistaken for a pornographic peddler by a postman and later for a beggar by a landlady. He is arrested at Châtillon-sur-Loire for lacking papers, while the Cigarette, elegantly dressed and with a passport, is treated with respect. The Commissary eventually releases the Arethusa after being bribed with a volume of Michelet's history.
Chapter 28
Edinburgh
A descriptive and historical portrait of Edinburgh, blending its picturesque landscapes, architectural contrasts, and the layered narratives of its past, from the Old Town's medieval character to the modern elegance of Princes Street.
Chapter 29
Introductory
The chapter introduces Edinburgh as a city of striking contrasts: its commanding geographical position and noble prospects are offset by a harsh, ungenial climate. The author reflects on the city's dual nature—half capital, half country town—and its Gothic, eccentric character, blending ancient history with modern life. He describes the city's architectural jumble, its storied past of royalty, religious conflict, and intellectual ferment, and the everyday bustle of its citizens, all set against the enduring backdrop of castle and crag.
Chapter 30
II: Old Town—The Lands
This chapter describes the Old Town of Edinburgh, its physical layout on a ridge dominated by the Castle, and the stark contrast between the crowded, smoky, vertical tenements of the poor and the modern, spacious New Town. Stevenson reflects on the social inequality visible in the city's architecture, the dense and often squalid living conditions of the lower classes, and the poignant decline of individuals who once held higher social standing. He also recounts the dramatic collapse of a tenement, which exposed the intimate lives of many families and underscored the fragility of existence in these overcrowded 'lands.'
Chapter 31
The Parliament Close
This chapter explores the historical and architectural transformations around St. Giles's Church and the Parliament Close in Edinburgh, reflecting on vanished structures like the Tolbooth and the ancient burying-ground, and the legacy of John Knox. It describes the daily life of lawyers and the solemn atmosphere of the courts, interweaving anecdotes of subterranean passages, legal rituals, and the grim remnants of criminal cases stored in the vaults below.
Chapter 32
Legends
Stevenson explores how the character of a place is expressed through its legends and associations, using Edinburgh as a prime example. He recounts tales of Deacon Brodie, the plague, Major Weir, and the two maiden sisters divided by a chalk line, illustrating how these stories reflect the city's dark, superstitious, and religiously divided nature.
Chapter 33
Greyfriars
Stevenson reflects on Greyfriars churchyard in Edinburgh, describing its history, monuments, and the contrast between the dead and the living. He recounts visits with a gravedigger and gardener, notes the tomb of Sir George Mackenzie, the site of Covenanters' executions, and the story of martyrs' heads buried and later rediscovered. The chapter meditates on mortality, memory, and the grim humor of death.
Chapter 34
New Town—Town and Country
Stevenson contrasts the New Town of Edinburgh with the Old, defending its picturesque qualities against architectural critics. He reflects on how the city's layout offers surprising views of the countryside, and meditates on the interplay between urban life and nature, the persistence of rural hamlets within the growing city, and the childhood memories that blend town and country.
Chapter 35
VII: The Villa Quarters
The author critiques the new villa architecture in Edinburgh, particularly around Newington and Morningside, lamenting their ugliness, lack of proportion, and unsuitability for human habitation. He contrasts them with more noble forms of ugliness and calls for action against such building practices.
Chapter 36
VIII: The Calton Hill
Stevenson describes the Calton Hill in Edinburgh, its monuments, and the panoramic views it offers of the city, the Firth of Forth, and the surrounding countryside. He reflects on fame and forgetfulness, contrasting the memorials to Dugald Stewart and Burns with the neglected grave of Robert Fergusson. The chapter also paints vivid pictures of the city by day and night, the interplay of light and shadow, and the historical and literary associations of the landscape.
Chapter 37
Winter and New Year
Stevenson reflects on the harshness of the Scottish winter, its influence on the language and poetry of Scotland, and the contrasting comforts of hearth and tavern. He describes the gloom of Edinburgh in winter, the resilience of its people, and the festive traditions of New Year's Day, including family gatherings, gift-giving, and carousing. The chapter concludes with a meditation on winter sports like skating and curling at Duddingstone Loch.
Chapter 38
X: To the Pentland Hills
The chapter describes the landscape south of Edinburgh, focusing on the Pentland Hills and the view from their summits. It reflects on the city's influence on emigrants, the rural scenery, and a historical anecdote about a distiller and a friendly excise officer who played a flute as a signal.
Chapter 39
Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes
The author dedicates his travel narrative to Sidney Colvin, reflecting on the journey as a metaphor for life's pilgrimage, emphasizing the value of friendship and the intimate connection between writer and reader.
Chapter 40
A Mountain Town in France
Stevenson describes the town of Le Monastier in Haute Loire, its monastic origins, local customs, the lace-making industry, and the impact of changing English fashion on the local economy. He recounts his companionship with the Conductor of Roads and Bridges, their engineering excursions, and encounters with superstitious locals and timid herdswomen, reflecting on the region's history and character.
Chapter 41
Velay
The chapter recounts the narrator's challenging journey with his donkey Modestine through the Velay region. After a comedic struggle with loading the donkey and a slow, frustrating pace, a peasant teaches him the proper way to drive her. The narrator reflects on the Sabbath, passes through Goudet, and continues toward Langogne, crossing the Allier and entering Gévaudan.
Chapter 42
The Donkey, the Pack, and the Packsaddle
The narrator describes his preparations for a journey through the Cévennes, including the design of a sleeping-sack and the purchase of a donkey named Modestine from Father Adam in Le Monastier. He details the challenges of loading the packsaddle and the initial mishaps that occur.
Chapter 43
The Green Donkey-Driver
The narrator departs from Monastier with Modestine, struggling to control her pace. A peasant teaches him the proper method of driving a donkey, but the journey remains arduous. He passes through Goudet, encounters a mother and son who misdirect him, and ends up at Bouchet St. Nicolas instead of his intended destination.
Chapter 44
I Have a Goad
The narrator describes his stay at the humble auberge of Bouchet St. Nicolas, detailing the rustic accommodations, the friendly innkeeper and his sharp wife, and his awkward night sharing a room with a cooper and his family. The next morning, the innkeeper presents him with a goad, which transforms his journey by making Modestine obedient. He travels through bleak, wintry landscapes toward Pradelles and Langogne, reflecting on the legendary Beast of Gévaudan and crossing into the county of Gévaudan.
Chapter 45
Upper Gévaudan
The narrator continues his journey through the rugged landscape of Upper Gévaudan, facing harsh weather, difficult terrain, and unhelpful locals. After a night camping in the dark, he reaches the village of Cheylard and later Luc, reflecting on the contrast between his romantic ideals of adventure and the gritty reality of travel.
Chapter 46
A Camp in the Dark
The narrator awakens in a random woodside nook in Gévaudan, feeling pleasantly astray and realizing a fraction of his daydreams for adventure. He describes the wild, cold weather and his preparations for the day. He then recounts the previous day's journey from Langogne to Le Cheylard l'Évêque, struggling with rain, hail, and a labyrinth of tracks. Lost at dusk, he encounters eerie children dancing in a marsh and receives unhelpful directions. Forced to camp in the dark, he ties up Modestine, sets up his sleeping-bag, eats a meager meal, and falls asleep to the wind. He wakes at dawn, surprised by how easy and pleasant the night was despite the tempest.
Chapter 47
Cheylard and Luc
The narrator describes his journey from Cheylard to Luc through a bleak, beggarly landscape reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands. He reflects on his philosophy of traveling for travel's sake, the hardships of the road, and his strained relationship with Modestine. Upon arriving in Luc, he finds a clean inn with a melodramatic kitchen and a landlady like a nun, but suffers a cold, sleepless night. In Cheylard, he observes the modest village life, a church board recording charitable donations, and receives kind hospitality from an innkeeping family who advise him to sue the man whose wood he slept in. He notes Modestine's injuries and his own lack of affection for her.
Chapter 48
Our Lady of the Snows
The narrator continues his journey, now with his sack arranged differently on Modestine, and ascends into the hills of Vivarais toward the Trappist monastery of Our Lady of the Snows. He describes the wild landscape, his apprehension upon approaching the monastery, and his reception by the monks. He reflects on the monastic life, the vow of silence, the daily routine, and the health and cheerfulness of the brothers. He is given a room and meets an Irish deacon.
Chapter 49
Father Apollinaris
The narrator continues his journey through the valley of the river, approaching the Trappist monastery of Our Lady of the Snows. He encounters a medieval-looking friar, Father Apollinaris, who initially warns him that he may not be received but later, upon learning he is an author, offers to help. The narrator is eventually admitted to the monastery.
Chapter 50
The Monks
The narrator visits the Trappist monastery of Our Lady of the Snows, guided by a friendly Irish deacon. He explores the cloisters, library, workshops, and gardens, observing the monks' daily routines, their vow of silence, and their austere yet cheerful life. He reflects on the wisdom of the monastic rule, the division of time, and the peace it brings, and attends the evening compline service.
Chapter 51
The Boarders
The narrator describes his stay at Our Lady of the Snows, where he encounters two boarders: a country parish priest and a former military commandant now a novice. The chapter focuses on their attempts to convert him to Catholicism, revealing the narrator's discomfort with their aggressive proselytizing and his own hedonistic leanings. The conversation shifts from politics to religion, culminating in a tense debate about faith and salvation.
Chapter 52
Upper Gévaudan (Continued)
The narrator departs from the monastery, crosses the Goulet, and spends a night among the pines on the Lozère, reflecting on nature, solitude, and the simple life.
Chapter 53
Across the Goulet
The narrator departs from the monastery with Modestine, crossing the Goulet mountain. He encounters surveyors at an inn, wakes early, and traverses varied landscapes filled with sounds of rural life. A conflict arises when he attempts a shortcut, leading to a stubborn struggle with Modestine. He eventually reaches the summit, overlooking the valley of the Lozère.
Chapter 54
A Night Among the Pines
The narrator climbs the Lozère after dinner, finds a secluded glade among the pines, and camps for the night. He reflects on the beauty and freedom of sleeping outdoors, wakes in the early hours to smoke and stargaze, and enjoys a serene solitude tinged with a longing for companionship. At dawn, he prepares to depart, leaving coins on the turf as a whimsical payment for his night's lodging.
Chapter 55
The Country of the Camisards
The narrator ascends the Lozère, reaching the Pic de Finiels and taking in a sweeping view of the Cévennes. He reflects on the history of the Camisards, a Protestant rebellion that took place in these hills a hundred and eighty years earlier. Descending into the valley, he meets locals, including a man who asks if he knows the Lord, and encounters the town of Pont de Montvert, site of the war's outbreak. He spends a restless night in the open, is questioned by a peasant in the morning, and pays a beggar before continuing his journey.
Chapter 56
Across the Lozère
The narrator ascends the Lozère, reaching the Pic de Finiels and experiencing a dramatic shift in landscape and perspective. He reflects on the historical Camisard rebellion, then descends into the Cévennes, noting the beauty of the river and the Sabbath stillness.
Chapter 57
Pont de Montvert
The narrator arrives in Pont de Montvert and observes the distinct Southern French atmosphere, contrasting it with England and Scotland. He describes the local people, their intelligence and liveliness, and notes the beauty of a waitress named Clarisse. The chapter then delves into the history of the Camisard rebellion, focusing on the persecution of Protestants by the Archpriest Du Chayla, the attack on his house led by the prophet Séguier, and the subsequent execution of Séguier.
Chapter 58
In the Valley of the Tarn
The narrator travels through the Valley of the Tarn, reflecting on the landscape and the spirit of the Camisards. He finds a small plateau to camp, but is anxious about discovery. The night is filled with mysterious rustlings, and he wakes to find peasants nearby, forcing a hasty departure.
Chapter 59
Florac
The narrator arrives in Florac, a town in the Tarn region, and experiences the local culture, noting the coexistence of Protestants and Catholics and the enduring memory of the Camisard wars. He reflects on the differences in moral language and the value of partial intimacies in an imperfect world.
Chapter 60
In the Valley of the Mimente
The narrator describes his journey through the valley of the Mimente, where he camps under an oak tree near a river, disturbed by a barking dog. He reflects on the beauty of the stars and the influence of nature on the mind. The next morning, he encounters a Catholic wayfarer and muses on the resilience of religious faith among rural people.
Chapter 61
The Heart of the Country
The narrator continues his journey through the Cévennes, reflecting on the history of the Camisards and the resilient Protestant spirit of the region. He encounters a merchant who warns him of dangers, an old shepherd on a ridge, and a woman singing a ballad. The chapter culminates in a moonlit descent to St. Germain de Calberte, with meditations on love, hope, and the enduring faith of the local people.
Chapter 62
The Last Day
The narrator awakens in St. Germain de Calberte, a quiet hamlet with a violent history during the Camisard wars. He reflects on the beauty of the chestnut groves, the local Catholic-Protestant tensions, and the story of Du Chayla. He dines with Catholics who condemn a man for changing his religion, and later ascends the hill of St. Pierre at night, recalling the Camisard leader Castanet and his wife Mariette. He shares a final meal with Modestine before descending to St. Jean du Gard.
Chapter 63
Farewell, Modestine!
The narrator sells his donkey Modestine after she is deemed unfit for travel, reflecting on their journey together and the emotional loss he feels upon parting with her.
Chapter 64
The Amateur Emigrant
The narrator recounts his journey as an amateur emigrant from the Clyde to Sandy Hook, detailing the experiences and observations of steerage passengers aboard an emigrant ship, including the diverse characters, the harsh conditions, and the sense of adventure and uncertainty.
Chapter 65
The Second Cabin
The narrator describes his fellow passengers and the conditions aboard the emigrant ship, focusing on the second cabin where he travels. He details the ship's layout, the food, the social dynamics, and introduces several notable characters, including Mr. Jones, a newly-married couple, an old lady obsessed with her watch, and a group of Scandinavians.
Chapter 66
Early Impressions
The narrator describes the departure from the Clyde and the boarding of emigrants at Lough Foyle, reflecting on the nature of emigration and the diverse group of passengers. He observes the cheerful yet poignant atmosphere among the 'broken men of England,' the children's fearless play, and the working men's complaints about steerage conditions. The chapter concludes with scenes of musical gatherings and a failed quadrille, highlighting the social dynamics and resilience of the emigrants.
Chapter 67
Steerage Scenes
The narrator describes the lively and communal atmosphere in the steerage compartments of the emigrant ship, where passengers gather to dance, sing, and play music despite sickness and cramped conditions. A fiddler provides cheer, and the narrator reflects on the social dynamics when cabin passengers condescend to visit. The chapter contrasts the resilience and humanity of the steerage passengers with the superficial superiority of the upper-class visitors.
Chapter 68
Steerage Types
Stevenson reflects on the various characters among the steerage passengers, focusing on their struggles with drink, idleness, and incompetence as causes for emigration. He profiles Mackay, a cynical and intelligent Scotsman, and Barney, a cheerful Irishman, among others, exploring themes of failure, hope, and the search for happiness.
Chapter 69
The Sick Man
The narrator, along with Jones and O'Reilly, discovers a sick man suffering from cramp in the scuppers. They seek help from the doctor and a steward, encountering indifference before finally assisting the man. The chapter also includes reflections on the man's background as a Tyneside day-labourer and his radical political views.
Chapter 70
The Stowaways
Stevenson reflects on the adventurous and precarious lives of stowaways, recounting the stories of two stowaways aboard his ship: Alick, a Scots engineer who abandoned his idle life after hearing of a friend's success in America, and a second, unnamed stowaway with a pale face and a gift for storytelling. He also describes a mysterious young woman traveling without a ticket, rumored to be with a married man, who becomes the subject of gossip among the steerage passengers.
Chapter 71
Personal Experience and Review
The narrator reflects on his steerage passage across the Atlantic, where he is mistaken for a common laborer despite his educated background. He observes the social dynamics aboard ship, noting how his fallen status affects interactions with both crew and passengers, and contemplates the nature of class, desire, and human connection.
Chapter 72
New York
The narrator arrives in New York during a relentless downpour, experiencing the city's contrasting rudeness and kindness. He stays at Reunion House, a humble lodging, and explores the city with a fellow traveler, Mr. Jones. The chapter reflects on the narrator's idealized vision of America versus the gritty reality, and concludes with his departure by train.
Chapter 73
Across the Plains
Stevenson recounts his journey across the American plains, reflecting on the diverse characters he encounters, the harsh realities of travel, and the broader themes of freedom, confinement, and the American experience.
Chapter 74
Leaves from the Notebook of an Emigrant Between New York and San Francisco
The narrator describes the chaotic and exhausting experience of emigrant travel from New York westward, including the overcrowded ferry depot, the dangerous crush of passengers and baggage, a nightmarish train journey through Chicago, encounters with a drunken German gentleman and a colored waiter, and reflections on the landscape and people encountered along the way.
Chapter 75
The Emigrant Train
The narrator describes his transition from a latent emigrant to a branded one as he boards the emigrant train at the Transfer Station. He details the sorting of passengers into cars for families, single men, and Chinese, the process of pairing up to purchase bed boards and cushions from a white-haired official, and the uncomfortable evening journey. The chapter includes scenes of music, card games, and interactions with newsboys, highlighting both the harshness and unexpected kindness of fellow travelers.
Chapter 76
The Plains of Nebraska
The narrator describes the vast, featureless plains of Nebraska, comparing the landscape to a billiard-board and reflecting on the monotony and isolation experienced by settlers. He observes a contented milk-selling woman at a way station and recounts a rude encounter at North Platte, highlighting the incomplete civilization of the region.
Chapter 77
The Desert of Wyoming
The narrator describes the desolate landscape of Wyoming and the Rockies, his illness on the train, and reflects on the railroad as a symbol of modern achievement. He includes a letter from an eleven-year-old boy detailing a tragic Indian attack on his emigrant family.
Chapter 78
Fellow-Passengers
The narrator reflects on the diverse and often uncommunicative passengers aboard the emigrant train, noting the contrast between European and American travelers, the westward migration driven by economic hardship, and the social dynamics of the journey, including the persistent curiosity about his name and the general indifference to deeper human connection.
Chapter 79
Despised Races
Stevenson reflects on the prejudice and mistreatment of Chinese immigrants and Native Americans by white Americans during his train journey across the continent. He contrasts the ancient civilization of China with the baseness of his fellow passengers, condemns the historical injustices against Native tribes, and critiques the hypocrisy of those who claim to love freedom while advocating for racial exclusion.
Chapter 80
To the Golden Gates
The narrator travels through Utah and Nevada, encountering a Scottish station keeper who advises on local currency, and later a theater manager who mistakes him for a musician. The journey continues through desolate landscapes until a transformative dawn in the Sierra Nevada mountains, culminating in a joyful arrival at Sacramento and San Francisco Bay.
Chapter 81
The Old and New Pacific Capitals
This chapter contrasts the old Pacific capital of Monterey with the new one of San Francisco, reflecting on the changes brought by American expansion and the loss of the old Californian way of life.
Chapter 82
Monterey
Stevenson reflects on the transformation of Monterey from a quaint, native town to a resort for wealth and fashion, lamenting the loss of its character and the mistreatment of the Indians of Carmel. He describes the destructive forest fires, the political influence of demagogue Kearney, and the encroaching American commercialism that threatens the land and its people.
Chapter 83
The Woods and the Pacific
The chapter describes the geography and atmosphere of the Monterey Peninsula, focusing on the omnipresent sound of the Pacific Ocean and the unique character of the coastal woods. The narrator recounts solitary walks through the forest, encounters with a Mexican man and a deserted Christian seaside resort, and reflections on the dangers of forest fires and the threat they pose to California's landscape.
Chapter 84
Mexicans, Americans, and Indians
The chapter describes Monterey, California, as a town that is essentially Mexican in character despite being under American political and economic control. It explores the dispossession of Mexican landowners, the cultural persistence of Mexican customs, and the complex racial and social dynamics among Mexicans, Americans, and other groups. The author reflects on the moral and practical consequences of American dominance, including the spread of credit dependency and the loss of traditional values.
Chapter 85
San Francisco
Stevenson describes San Francisco as a city of rapid growth and precarious foundation, built on a sandy peninsula prone to earthquakes and fires. He marvels at its multicultural population—Mexicans, Chinese, French, Germans, Italians, and others—each maintaining their own customs, making the city a foreign place for all. He contrasts the opulent mansions of Nob Hill with the decaying, forgotten houses on Telegraph and Rincon Hills, and celebrates the majestic fleet of deep-sea ships in the bay.
Chapter 86
The Silverado Squatters
The narrator describes the setting of Mount Saint Helena in California, its geography and the journey from San Francisco via ferry and rail through Napa Valley to Calistoga, highlighting the rustic life, the dreary Vallejo Ferry and Frisby House, and the mountain as a frontier halting the railroad.
Chapter 87
In the Valley
The narrator describes a scenic drive through the Napa Valley, past Mount Saint Helena, and visits the Petrified Forest owned by a former sailor turned rancher. The chapter also recounts encounters with fellow Scots in California, reflecting on themes of wandering, clannishness, and the oddities of life on the frontier.
Chapter 88
Calistoga
The narrator describes the town of Calistoga, its layout, and its character as a new and distinctly American settlement. He reflects on the presence of stagecoaches and highwaymen, recounts the story of the famous stage-driver Foss, and notes his first use of a telephone. The chapter also details the Springs Hotel and its surroundings, the volcanic heat of the valley, and the imposing presence of Mount Saint Helena.
Chapter 89
II: The Petrified Forest
The narrator describes a scenic drive from the Springs Hotel through California's valleys and forests, eventually arriving at the Petrified Forest owned by Mr. Evans, a former sailor turned rancher. Mr. Evans shares his story of discovering the petrified trees and his affection for Scotland, and the narrator reflects on the beauty of the journey and the unexpected charm of meeting the proprietor.
Chapter 90
Napa Wine
The author reflects on the state of Californian wine-making, comparing it to the great European traditions and lamenting the decline of classic vineyards. He visits two Napa Valley vineyards—Mr. Schram's and Mr. McEckron's—describing the rugged landscape, the experimental nature of the industry, and the character of the vintners. The chapter meditates on the transience of human endeavor in a land of constant movement and change.
Chapter 91
IV: The Scot Abroad
Stevenson reflects on the nature of Scottish identity and the deep, inexplicable bond that unites Scots when they meet abroad, despite internal divisions of language, religion, and region. He illustrates this with anecdotes of chance encounters with fellow Scots in California, including a wine-grower who mentions Mons Meg, a quiet rancher, a kind resident, and a comically roguish countryman. He concludes by noting the clannishness of wandering races like the Scots and Jews.
Chapter 92
With the Children of Israel
The narrator describes the Kelmar family, Russian Jewish storekeepers who dominate the local economy through credit and debt, and recounts a Sunday excursion with them to sell ship's kettles to settlers. The journey is marked by numerous delays and stops, revealing the Kelmars' business methods and the narrator's growing understanding of their role as 'village usurers.' The chapter also reflects on deserted mining towns in California and the dependence of settlers on merchants like Kelmar.
Chapter 93
To Introduce Mr. Kelmar
The narrator describes the many deserted mining towns in California, particularly around Mount Saint Helena, and his interest in squatting in one such place, Pine Flat. He introduces Mr. Kelmar, a Russian Jewish storekeeper who holds great economic power over the local settlers. Kelmar steers the narrator away from Pine Flat and instead recommends Silverado, an abandoned mining town up the mountain, and offers to introduce him to Rufe Hanson, the hunter who lives there. The narrator accepts a ride with the Kelmars to the Toll House to meet the Hansons.
Chapter 94
II: First Impressions of Silverado
The narrator describes the journey from Calistoga to Silverado with Kelmar, Mrs. Kelmar, Abramina, and her daughter. They travel by carriage through the Napa Valley, ascending Mount Saint Helena, facing strong winds and dust. After stopping at the Toll House Hotel, they proceed on foot to the abandoned Silverado mining town, finding only Rufe Hanson's house and the remnants of the mining operation. They eventually discover a deserted house at the tunnel, which they decide to inspect.
Chapter 95
The Return
The narrator and Fanny endure a series of delays and stops as they travel with the Jewish family, Kelmar, Mrs. Kelmar, and Abramina, who are engaged in placing ship's kettles with local families. Despite hunger and frustration, the narrator reflects on the kindness and simplicity of the Jews, the tyranny of the village usurer, and the incongruous memories a traveler carries.
Chapter 96
The Act of Squatting
The narrator describes exploring the abandoned Silverado mine, discovering its ruins and relics, and the challenges of settling in with minimal supplies. After waiting for Rufe Hanson, who arrives late with help, they face further setbacks like a missing stovepipe and lost plate, but eventually receive hay for bedding and make a rough camp in the old bunkhouse.
Chapter 97
The Hunter's Family
This chapter introduces the Hanson family, particularly Rufe Hanson and his wife, along with her brother Irvine Lovelands. Rufe is a hunter and amateur detective, grave and artistic, while Irvine is a crude, self-absorbed clodhopper. The chapter contrasts the two types of rusticity: the hunter living in nature and the clodhopper living outside society.
Chapter 98
The Sea Fogs
The narrator describes waking to a transformed landscape where a vast ocean of fog has submerged Napa Valley and the surrounding hills, creating a surreal and beautiful scene from his high vantage point at Silverado. He observes the fog's slow, silent advance, its swallowing of landmarks, and its eventual retreat as the wind shifts, restoring the clear mountain view.
Chapter 99
The Toll House
The narrator describes the Toll House, a sleepy mountain inn where consumptive boarders pass their days in idleness. The inn stirs to life only with the arrival of the daily stages, which bring a brief, thrilling bustle of travelers and news from the outside world before the place sinks back into its habitual slumber.
Chapter 100
A Starry Drive
The narrator describes a breathtaking night drive under an extraordinary starry sky, followed by their return to Silverado after a brief illness-forced stay in Calistoga. They recount the failed attempt to hire a Chinese servant and the subsequent journey back with Joe Strong, culminating in a sense of contentment and possession upon reaching their mountain home, despite signs of wild animals having ransacked the place.
Chapter 101
Episodes in the Story of a Mine
The narrator reflects on the history of the Silverado mine, surrounded by its ruins and remnants. Two conflicting stories circulate: one of a once-thriving mine that yielded $600,000 before the vein pinched out, the other of an elaborate stock-jobbing fraud involving smuggled silver. As the narrator resides at Silverado, the claim's expiration approaches, and Rufe Hanson plans to 'jump the claim' for its scrap. The owner, Mr. Ronalds, unexpectedly appears, asserting his rights and recounting the mine's past glory, while the narrator grapples with complicity in the planned takeover.
Chapter 102
Toils and Pleasures
The chapter describes the daily life and simple pleasures of the inhabitants at Silverado, a mountain hermitage. It contrasts the order of human habitation with the wildness of nature, detailing the household chores, the laborious walking on rough terrain, and the peaceful moments spent on the platform. The narrative also touches on the dangers of the old mine, the beauty of the surroundings, and the quiet joy of evening and night.
Chapter 103
Fontainebleau
Stevenson reflects on the village communities of painters in Fontainebleau, exploring the artistic life and the sense of community among artists.
Chapter 104
I
The chapter explores the artistic colony at Fontainebleau, discussing the nature of artistic apprenticeship, the importance of craft over sentiment, and the social dynamics of painter villages. It contrasts the disciplined pursuit of style with the dangers of premature ambition, and reflects on the unique charm and sanative quality of the forest of Fontainebleau as a haven for artists.
Chapter 105
II
The author reflects on the forest of Fontainebleau, describing its varied landscapes, the interplay of nature and civilization, and the solitude it offers despite being a popular tourist destination. He recounts the story of a false hermit who lived in a tree cabin and was later revealed to be a chicken-stealer.
Chapter 106
III
The author reflects on his time as a 'Barbizonian' in the artistic community of Barbizon, describing the post-Millet era, the decline of the Latin Quarter's bohemian tradition, the influx of Anglo-Saxon artists, and the easygoing life at Siron's inn. He recalls figures like Gaston Lafenestre and the promising but unfulfilled artist Hills, and contrasts the fates of Millet and his rival.
Chapter 107
IV
The chapter describes the unique social dynamics of the artist colony at Barbizon, where a loose but strict code of conduct governs the community. It contrasts the idyllic, dreamlike visions of youth with the more grounded reality of artistic labor, and reflects on the French character that enables such a society to thrive.
Chapter 108
V
The chapter describes the village of Gretz, its bridge, and the artistic community that gathers there, contrasting it with Barbizon and Cernay. It reflects on the changes to the inn and recounts a story of two foreign painters who were harbored by the Chevillons during the war, refusing to use napkins they could not pay for.
Chapter 109
VI
The chapter reflects on the picturesque but overlooked villages of Nemours, Moret, Montigny, Chailly-en-Bière, and Marlotte, discussing their suitability for painters and the decline of artistic habitation in these places.
Chapter 110
VII
The narrator reflects on the enduring spirit of Fontainebleau forest, where generations of artists and wanderers leave behind intangible treasures of memory and joy. He urges young painters to immerse themselves in the forest's vitality, learning from its gaiety and inspiration rather than mere mechanical studies, to avoid joyless reproduction in art.
Chapter 111
The Coast of Fife
The author reflects on the emotional pain of leaving home for school, a journey that led to his first professional tour along the coast of Fife with his father. He describes the historical and geographical features of the Fife coast, including its towns, legends, and the tragicomedy of inspecting harbor lights.
Chapter 112
The Education of an Engineer
Stevenson reflects on his youthful engineering apprenticeship in Anstruther and Wick, describing his true passion for literature, his experiences with diving, and the strange encounter with Italian vagabonds in the far north of Scotland.
Chapter 113
Cockermouth and Keswick
The author reflects on the process of recalling and chronicling past journeys, explaining that he allows time to filter memories so only the most significant details remain. He compares this to a painter's selective focus, and admits that much of this particular journey has been lost, except for a vivid fifty- or sixty-hour segment in the middle. He likens his situation to a minister whose sermon was partially eaten by rats, and resolves to begin where his memory becomes clear.
Chapter 114
Cockermouth
The narrator steps out into Cockermouth and is struck by the realization that he is in England, reflecting on the deep cultural divide between England and Scotland despite their proximity and shared heritage. He wanders through the town, observing the landscape and people, but feels lonely. He discovers a mill and a sign for 'Canadian Felt Hat Manufacturers,' dashing his hopes for a cozy inn. After a weary walk, he returns to his inn for supper and bed. The next morning, he tells the waitress his plan to travel through Whitehaven to Furness, but she insists he should go to Keswick instead, and he reluctantly agrees.
Chapter 115
An Evangelist
The narrator reflects on his encounter with Smethurst, a hatmaker in Cockermouth, whose simple, happy conversation and unselfish kindness in lending him a raft for a reminiscence leave a deep impression. Despite failing to fully enjoy the experience, the narrator admires Smethurst's gospel of quiet contentment.
Chapter 116
Another
The narrator encounters an Irish beggar-woman and her daughter, who shares her story of abandonment by her husband and sister. A young evangelist in a high white hat approaches, questions the woman about her faith, gives her tracts, and then turns to the narrator to share his own conversion story, which he attributes to a gig accident. He provides the narrator with tracts before departing.
Chapter 117
Last of Smethurst
The narrator travels by train to Keswick, meeting a burly man who is a friend of Smethurst. After arriving, he visits the lake at night, encounters three playful girls in the moonlight, and later returns to the hotel where he meets a London theatre manager who dominates the conversation with poems and anecdotes.
Chapter 118
An Autumn Effect
The narrator reflects on the unique perspective gained by traveling quickly through a landscape, capturing a unified impression before the scene changes. He begins a pilgrimage on foot, savoring the freedom of the open road and the ability to follow whims. The journey takes him through autumn countryside, past ploughmen and hedgerows, to Peacock Farm with its beautiful birds, and finally to an inn at Wendover where he spends a cozy evening reading about Renaissance Italy.
Chapter 119
A Winter’s Walk in Carrick and Galloway
The narrator describes a winter walk through Carrick and Galloway, starting at the Brown Hill of Carrick after a snowfall. He encounters an elderly man gathering cockles, reflects on the man's lonely life, and continues to the fishing village of Dunure. There, he observes the desolate landscape, a peculiar guestroom, and the ruins of Dunure Castle, recalling the historical torture of Commendator Alan Stewart. He then travels to Maybole, noting its decay and the local character, and overhears talk of drinking and religious revivals.
Chapter 120
Forest Notes
A reflective essay on the experience of walking through a forest, meditating on nature, solitude, and the passage of time.
Chapter 121
On the Plain
The chapter describes the vast, solemn plains of the Gâtinais bordering Fontainebleau, focusing on the historical plight of the peasantry under feudal lords and royal forest laws. It contrasts the old château's decay with the enduring hardship of the peasants, who now enjoy some prosperity but still bear the memory of centuries of oppression. The forest, though a refuge in times of war, remains a symbol of royal power and historical events, from medieval hunts to Napoleon's farewell.
Chapter 122
In the Season
The chapter paints a vivid picture of a quiet artist village on the edge of a forest, focusing on the communal life at an inn where painters gather. It describes the evening rituals of dining, conversation, music, and occasional moonlit picnics, capturing the camaraderie and creative atmosphere of the season.
Chapter 123
Idle Hours
The chapter contrasts the eerie beauty of the woods at night with their vibrant daytime character, describing the artist colony's daily routine, the companionship of mongrel dogs, the scarcity of birds and abundance of insects, and the idyllic experience of being painted while immersed in the forest's intense colors and scents.
Chapter 124
A Pleasure-Party
The chapter describes a pleasure excursion from Barbizon to Grez, a scenic village by the river. The party travels by wagonette through the forest, encountering a military checkpoint where the doctor negotiates passage. They enjoy bathing, boating, and gathering water-lilies on the river, followed by a festive dinner. Some return that night, stopping at Marlotte for a stirrup-cup, where the arrival of the charismatic 'Blank' revives the merriment. The next day, rain spoils the landscape, and the group is left with aimless walks and indoor games.
Chapter 125
The Woods in Spring
The narrator describes the forest in early spring as a place of sharp, cold beauty and solitude, where the woods are more themselves without the distractions of summer. He evokes the sensory details of the landscape—violets, leafless beeches, pines, birches, and rocky clearings—and the sounds of hunting horns, woodcutters' axes, and birds. The chapter culminates in a strange, uncanny encounter: a friend stumbles upon a silent, motionless picnic party in a remote glen, including a dragoon playing a key-bugle and a father knitting, who seem like mechanical waxworks. The friend flees in fear, and the narrator speculates they might be automata or exiled gods from Heine's mythology.
Chapter 126
Morality
The chapter reflects on the profound attraction of the forest, particularly Fontainebleau, as a place of spiritual renewal and escape from the complexities and moral burdens of civilized life. It contrasts the simplicity and freedom of forest existence with the 'dismal land of labour' and the 'grim contrariety of interests' in society, suggesting that in the woods one can shed sorrow, duty, and scruples to live a life of peace, health, and immediate sensation. The forest is portrayed as a 'great moral spa' that restores the weary spirit, though it also tempts one to forget human connection and moral feeling, offering a life of change and movement that may ultimately lead to isolation.
Chapter 127
Davos in Winter
The chapter describes the oppressive and monotonous experience of an invalid's winter in an Alpine valley, focusing on the confinement, lack of sensory variety, and the rare moments of beauty when sun and storm transform the landscape.
Chapter 128
Health and Mountains
The chapter discusses a shift in medical opinion regarding the treatment of invalids, moving from the mild, enervating climates of the Riviera to the bracing, active life of high-altitude mountain sanatoriums, particularly in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. It contrasts the passive resignation of traditional health resorts with the tonic, manly vigor of mountain living, and vividly describes the landscape, weather, and psychological effects of winter in the Alps.
Chapter 129
Alpine Diversions
The chapter describes the various diversions available in an Alpine sanitarium, including theatrical performances, concerts, skating, and tobogganing, highlighting the contrast between the invalids' confinement and the transient artists who bring a sense of movement and adventure.
Chapter 130
The Stimulation of the Alps
Stevenson describes the unique, almost intoxicating effect of the Alpine climate on the mind and body. He contrasts the superficial health of sunburned invalids with the deeper, fleeting exhilaration of the high-altitude air—a 'sterile joyousness' that brings a sense of boundless energy and mental clarity, yet is often accompanied by underlying languor and physical weariness. He compares this stimulation to the effect of a fine wine, noting its influence on writing style and the peculiar, labored pleasantry it inspires.
Chapter 131
Roads
This chapter reflects on the quiet, intimate pleasures of observing nature and landscape, arguing that true appreciation comes from patient, repeated study rather than overwhelming spectacles. It celebrates the character of roads—their winding, adaptive lines—as sources of continuous interest and as symbols of travel, desire, and the human spirit's longing for what lies beyond.
Chapter 132
On the Enjoyment of Unpleasant Places
The essay explores the art of finding beauty and peace in seemingly unpleasant or inhospitable places. Stevenson argues that through patient observation, a disciplined mindset, and the power of association, one can transform any environment into a source of aesthetic pleasure and tranquility. He illustrates this with a personal anecdote about finding profound peace in a bleak, windy coastal landscape dominated by two ruined castles, contrasting the transient strife of human history with the eternal calm of the sea and sky.
Chapter 133
Endnotes
The author addresses criticism from his native town regarding remarks made in the book, defends his observations as harmless, and offers a conciliatory note to Glasgow. He also includes several scholarly references and a comparison to Blake.
Chapter 134
List of Illustrations
A listing of illustrations and maps included in the book, depicting scenes from Edinburgh and the routes of the author's travels.
