Travel Essays · Chapter
San Francisco explained
Stevenson describes San Francisco as a city of rapid growth and precarious foundation, built on a sandy peninsula prone to earthquakes and fires.
What happens
Stevenson describes San Francisco as a city of rapid growth and precarious foundation, built on a sandy peninsula prone to earthquakes and fires. He marvels at its multicultural population—Mexicans, Chinese, French, Germans, Italians, and others—each maintaining their own customs, making the city a foreign place for all. He contrasts the opulent mansions of Nob Hill with the decaying, forgotten houses on Telegraph and Rincon Hills, and celebrates the majestic fleet of deep-sea ships in the bay.
Themes in this chapter
Travel and Discovery
Stevenson explores San Francisco as a destination for adventurers from around the world, emphasizing the city's foreign character and the experience of discovery for newcomers.
Social Class and Inequality
The chapter contrasts the opulent mansions of Nob Hill millionaires with the decaying houses of Telegraph and Rincon Hills, and describes the Stock Exchange as a pump siphoning savings from lower quarters to the wealthy.
National Identity and Patriotism
Stevenson highlights the diverse nationalities in San Francisco, each celebrating their own holidays and maintaining their customs, creating a patchwork of identities rather than a unified American one.
Nature and the Sublime
The description of the Pacific Ocean, the Golden Gate, Tamalpais, and the geological instability of the peninsula evokes the sublime power of nature.
Characters to notice
- Indians
Mentioned in the context of Indian tales about the peninsula rising and sinking from the sea.
- The Chinese
Described as a distinct community with their own quarter, shops, and joss-house.
- The Mexicans
Noted as unmistakable among the diverse passersby in the city.
- The Americans
Referenced as one of the many nationalities present, though the city is described as essentially not American.
- The English
Mentioned as finding themselves in a strange country alongside the Yankee.
- The Arethusa
Not directly mentioned; not included.
- Tom Bowling
Not directly mentioned; not included.
Key passages
“The sandy peninsula of San Francisco, mirroring itself on one side in the bay, beaten on the other by the surge of the Pacific, and shaken to the heart by frequent earthquakes, seems in itself no very durable foundation.”
San Francisco's sandy peninsula, reflecting in the bay on one side and battered by Pacific waves on the other, is frequently shaken by earthquakes, making it seem unstable.
Stevenson emphasizes the precarious natural setting of the city.
“The town is essentially not Anglo-Saxon; still more essentially not American.”
The city is fundamentally not Anglo-Saxon, and even less American.
Stevenson underscores the foreign character of San Francisco.
“For every man, for every race and nation, that city is a foreign city; humming with foreign tongues and customs; and yet each and all have made themselves at home.”
For every person, regardless of race or nationality, San Francisco is a foreign city filled with diverse languages and customs, yet everyone has managed to feel at home.
Stevenson highlights the paradox of universal foreignness and belonging.
“The great net of straight thoroughfares lying at right angles, east and west and north and south, over the shoulders of Nob Hill, the hill of palaces, must certainly be counted the best part of San Francisco.”
The grid of straight streets crossing at right angles over Nob Hill, the hill of mansions, is the finest part of San Francisco.
Stevenson describes the layout of the wealthy district.
