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Travel Essays · Chapter

The Oise in Flood explained

The narrator and the Cigarette navigate the swollen Oise River by canoe, experiencing both the terror and exhilaration of the swift current.

What happens

The narrator and the Cigarette navigate the swollen Oise River by canoe, experiencing both the terror and exhilaration of the swift current. After a cold and exhausting start, they launch at Vadencourt and race downstream, feeling alive and defiant against death. They pause in a meadow to enjoy the sunshine and bells, then resume their journey as the river grows more dangerous.

Themes in this chapter

  • Nature and the Sublime

    The river is portrayed as both beautiful and terrifying, with the reeds shivering in fear and the current described as a 'Centaur carrying off a nymph,' highlighting nature's power and indifference.

  • Mortality and the Passage of Time

    The narrator reflects on death as a 'wholesale filcher' and views the exhilarating river journey as a victory over mortality, living 'three to the minute.'

  • Freedom vs. Confinement

    The canoe's swift movement and the narrator's sense of liberation contrast with the cold, fearful start and the lurking danger of the river, embodying a struggle between freedom and constraint.

Characters to notice

  • The Cigarette

    Traveling companion who jokes about the narrator's shivering and compares a ploughman to a toy Burns.

Key passages

  • The canoe was like a leaf in the current. It took it up and shook it, and carried it masterfully away, like a Centaur carrying off a nymph.

    The canoe was helplessly swept along by the powerful river, as if a mythical creature were carrying it off.

    Illustrates the sublime power of nature over human endeavor.

  • I was living three to the minute. I was scoring points against him every stroke of my paddle, every turn of the stream.

    I felt intensely alive, gaining on death with every action I took on the river.

    Reflects the theme of mortality and the narrator's defiant joy.

  • The reeds might nod their heads in warning, and with tremulous gestures tell how the river was as cruel as it was strong and cold, but the reeds had to stand where they were; and those who stand still are always timid advisers.

    The reeds seemed to warn of danger, but since they could not move, their caution was irrelevant to us who were actively engaged.

    Highlights the contrast between passive fear and active engagement with life.