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Travel Essays · Chapter

Cheylard and Luc explained

The narrator describes his journey from Cheylard to Luc through a bleak, beggarly landscape reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands.

What happens

The narrator describes his journey from Cheylard to Luc through a bleak, beggarly landscape reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands. He reflects on his philosophy of traveling for travel's sake, the hardships of the road, and his strained relationship with Modestine. Upon arriving in Luc, he finds a clean inn with a melodramatic kitchen and a landlady like a nun, but suffers a cold, sleepless night. In Cheylard, he observes the modest village life, a church board recording charitable donations, and receives kind hospitality from an innkeeping family who advise him to sue the man whose wood he slept in. He notes Modestine's injuries and his own lack of affection for her.

Themes in this chapter

  • Travel and Discovery

    The narrator emphasizes his philosophy of traveling for travel's sake, finding meaning in movement and the immediate experience of the road.

  • Nature and the Sublime

    The landscape is described as cold, naked, and ignoble, with a focus on the harsh, unyielding environment and the wind's rudeness.

  • Human Connection and Community

    The narrator receives kind hospitality from the innkeeping family in Cheylard, who offer practical help and concern for his well-being.

Characters to notice

  • Modestine

    The narrator's donkey, suffering from raw forelegs and bleeding under her tail; the narrator feels no affection for her despite her patience.

  • The Priest

    The parish priest of Cheylard, whose photograph is displayed in the inn's kitchen.

Key passages

  • I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move; to feel the needs and hitches of our life more nearly; to come down off this featherbed of civilisation, and find the globe granite underfoot and strewn with cutting flints.

    The narrator asserts that his purpose in traveling is the act of moving itself, not reaching a destination, and that this brings him closer to life's raw realities, away from the comforts of civilization.

    This encapsulates the narrator's philosophy of travel as a means of engaging with the fundamental challenges of existence.

  • Thus, to the high entertainment of the angels, do we pelt each other with evangelists, like schoolboys bickering in the snow.

    The narrator observes with irony that different regions throw missionary efforts at each other, amusing the angels, much like children playfully throwing snowballs.

    This reflects the narrator's wry commentary on religious proselytizing and human folly.