Travel Essays · Chapter
The Parliament Close explained
This chapter explores the historical and architectural transformations around St.
What happens
This chapter explores the historical and architectural transformations around St. Giles's Church and the Parliament Close in Edinburgh, reflecting on vanished structures like the Tolbooth and the ancient burying-ground, and the legacy of John Knox. It describes the daily life of lawyers and the solemn atmosphere of the courts, interweaving anecdotes of subterranean passages, legal rituals, and the grim remnants of criminal cases stored in the vaults below.
Themes in this chapter
Mortality and the Passage of Time
The chapter reflects on vanished buildings, buried reformers, and the grim remnants of criminal cases, emphasizing the transience of life and institutions.
National Identity and Patriotism
The Parliament Close is a site of Scottish history, from the Union to the legacy of John Knox, evoking a distinct national character.
Human Connection and Community
The daily promenade of lawyers, the crowds awaiting trial outcomes, and the shared rituals of the court illustrate a tight-knit legal community.
Characters to notice
- John Knox
His grave is marked by two letters and a date in the Parliament Close, near the church where he preached.
- Old Edinburgh
The chapter describes the vanished Krames, Luckenbooths, and the ancient burying-ground, evoking the character of the historic city.
- The Judge
Judges are depicted sitting singly or in groups in the courts, delivering obiter dicta with dry fun.
- The Officers
The Macer and other court officers are mentioned as calling causes and maintaining order.
Key passages
“Time has wrought its changes most notably around the precincts of St. Giles's Church.”
The area around St. Giles's Church has been greatly altered over time.
Introduces the theme of transformation in the chapter.
“He sleeps within call of the church that so often echoed to his preaching.”
John Knox is buried within earshot of the church where he frequently preached.
Highlights the proximity of Knox's grave to his former pulpit.
“There is no hurry: point after point must be rightly examined and reduced to principle; judge after judge must utter forth his obiter dicta to delighted brethren.”
The legal process is unhurried, with each point carefully analyzed and judges sharing their opinions with appreciative colleagues.
Describes the deliberate, almost artistic approach to Scottish law.