To Cuba and Back · Chapters
Chapters explained
Chapter companions for To Cuba and Back by Richard Henry Dana Jr..
Chapter 1
Dedication
The author dedicates the narrative of his short absence to the Gentlemen of the Saturday Club.
Chapter 2
To Cuba and Back
The narrator recounts the initial departure from New York, the journey across the Gulf Stream, and the first impressions of Cuba, including the arrival in Havana and early observations of the landscape, people, and colonial atmosphere.
Chapter 3
I
The narrator departs from New York on the steamship Cahawba on February 12, 1859, describing the bustling pier, the diverse passengers, and the quiet efficiency of the ship's departure. The voyage begins with a snowy, cold night at sea, and the narrator walks the deck with the young captain, discussing the captain's regrets about leaving the navy due to limited promotion prospects. The narrator then moves to a quieter stateroom for better rest.
Chapter 4
II
The narrator describes the routine and discipline aboard the steamer Cahawba, the crossing of the Gulf Stream, and the sighting of the Florida coast. Observations are made on the effects of slavery and despotism on Cuban children, and the beauty of tropical nights at sea is contrasted with the harsh realities of shipwrecks and the Gulf Stream's dangers.
Chapter 5
III
The narrator describes a warm day at sea approaching Cuba, observing the diverse passengers aboard, including Northern and Cuban children. They sight the coast of Cuba, the Pan of Matanzas, and eventually Havana from the sea, but arrive after dark and cannot enter the harbor. The ship spends the night off Havana, with the narrator enchanted by the moonlit sea and the Morro Lighthouse.
Chapter 6
IV
The narrator describes the arrival in Havana at sunrise, the bustling harbor, the process of health and customs inspections, and the first impressions of the city's narrow streets, volantes, architecture, and social life.
Chapter 7
V
The narrator describes his arrival at Le Grand's hotel in Havana, detailing the indifferent service, the bare room, and the challenges of getting basic necessities. After a refreshing bath and a delightful breakfast of tropical fruits and local dishes, he ventures into the city to deliver letters, visiting merchants' opulent counting houses. He meets Mr. Theodore Parker and Dr. S. G. Howe, and later enjoys dinner at Le Grand's, observing the lively street scenes and the formal social customs of Havana.
Chapter 8
VI
The narrator describes a typical early morning in Havana, including the clanking chain gang, soldiers drilling, and the public sea baths. He then attends mass at the Cathedral, observing the sumptuous interior, the tomb of Christopher Columbus, and the irreverent behavior of altar boys and American visitors. The chapter concludes with a visit to the sacristan and the Seminario.
Chapter 9
VII
The narrator observes the presence of Coolies in Cuba, noting their importation and conditions. He visits the Jesus del Monte area, contrasting the squalid outskirts of Havana with the grand view from the Bishop's residence. He describes the lack of small coinage, the openness of domestic life, and the cultural practice of naming shops and towns. The chapter concludes with a visit to the opera at the Villanueva theatre, where he observes the local society.
Chapter 10
VIII
The narrator describes a sleepless night due to a mask ball next door, followed by a Sunday morning invitation to dine with the Bishop of Havana. At the dinner, he meets the Bishop of Puebla and other clergy, discussing topics including the pending 'Thirty Millions Bill' and its implications for Cuba's future. The chapter also covers observations on Havana's social customs, the lack of streetwalking, and the tolerance of only Roman Catholic worship.
Chapter 11
IX
The narrator visits the Belen (Bethlehem) Jesuit college in Havana, observing its operations, the discipline of the order, and the contrast between the Jesuits' austere personal lives and their lavish altar vestments. He reflects on the history and controversies of the Society of Jesus, and notes the Cuban taste for excessive decoration in churches.
Chapter 12
X
The narrator travels by steamer from Havana to Matanzas, observing the phosphorescent harbor at night. Upon arrival, he explores Matanzas, noting its architecture and foreign influences. He obtains a letter of introduction to a sugar plantation, La Ariadne, and witnesses Coolies laboring under harsh conditions. He learns about the Coolie trade and hears the story of the poet and patriot Gabriel de la Concepcion Valdez (Placido), a mulatto executed for his role in a slave uprising.
Chapter 13
XI
The narrator takes a train from Matanzas into the Cuban interior, observing the landscape, vegetation, and sugar plantations. He describes the palm, cocoa, banana, and plantain trees, the cane fields, and the slaves laboring. He arrives at Limonar and walks to the plantation of Señor C⸺, where he is warmly welcomed.
Chapter 14
First Day on a Sugar Estate
The narrator describes his first full day on La Ariadne sugar plantation, detailing the division of labor, treatment of enslaved workers, the role of the American engineer, and the economic calculations of sugar production. He also recounts the history of Mr. C⸺, a planter who fled the Haitian Revolution as a child and later converted his coffee estate into a sugar plantation. The chapter contrasts the relative humanity of this plantation with harsher practices elsewhere, and reflects on the social and economic changes brought by the shift from coffee to sugar cultivation.
Chapter 15
XIII
The narrator describes his third day at La Ariadne plantation, detailing the routine of plantation life, the flora and fauna, and the effects of foreign education on Cuban planters. He also recounts a visit from M. Bourgeoise, a neighboring cafetal owner and refugee from the Haitian Revolution.
Chapter 16
XIV
The narrator reflects on the demanding life of a plantation master, then enjoys a peaceful afternoon ride to the Santa Catalina coffee estate, encountering the proprietor and a group of children. After returning, he witnesses the nightly security measures and departs by train for Matanzas, bidding farewell to his host.
Chapter 17
XV
The narrator stays at Ensor's hotel in Matanzas, visits the Cumbre and Yumurí valley, and spends an evening with the cosmopolitan family of Mr. C⸺, learning that the Thirty Millions Bill has not passed.
Chapter 18
XVI
The narrator departs Matanzas by railroad for Havana, observing the Cuban interior and reflecting on the island's economic, political, and social conditions. He notes the sugar industry's profitability despite heavy taxes, the absence of self-government for Cubans, and the dominance of Spanish colonial rule. The journey ends with his return to Havana, where he reunites with friends.
Chapter 19
XVII
The narrator visits Havana, encounters Dr. and Mrs. Howe, learns of the trial of Señor Maestri for disrespect to the Captain-General, and reflects on the Creole interest in the case as a symbol of centralized power. The chapter ends with a description of a late-night contradanza and the morning bells.
Chapter 20
XVIII
The narrator describes a Sunday in Havana, beginning with morning sea baths and observing the chain gang. He attends Mass at the Belén church, noting the reverent Jesuit manner and the congregation's social and racial mix. After service, he breakfasts with a priest and attempts to gather companions for visits to charitable institutions, but customs prevent a young American lady from joining. He visits the Casa de Beneficencia, an orphanage, asylum, and home for the aged run by Sisters of Charity, and the Military Hospital, where he witnesses the devoted care of the nuns and their serene chapel prayers, contrasting the suffering of young Spanish soldiers with the sisters' heroism.
Chapter 21
XIX
The narrator describes a drive over the Paseo de Tacón to the Cerro, meeting the Bishop and the Count de la Fernandina, and visiting the Count's elegant villa. He then visits the Hospital of San Juan de Dios, noting its charity care and the presence of Sisters of Charity, and the Presidio and Grand Cárcel of Havana, where he observes the horrific conditions of the prison, the lack of rehabilitation, and the corrupt system where punishment is determined by money rather than crime.
Chapter 22
XX
The narrator attends a bullfight in Havana, describing the cruelty and ineptitude of the spectacle, the suffering of the animals, and the crowd's barbaric excitement. He contrasts the behavior of the spectators with the lack of courage for political liberty, and later shares an omnibus with four New Englanders who condemn the event as both cruel and fraudulent.
Chapter 23
Habits of the Cubans, Visit to the Bishop, and the Coolie Mart
The narrator observes Cuban customs such as the distinctive 'P—s—t!' call and universal smoking. He visits the Bishop at Jesus del Monte to pay parting respects, discussing the Thirty Millions Bill and religious institutions. The chapter then describes a visit to the Coolie market in the Cerro, detailing the importation, contracts, and treatment of Chinese laborers, and ends with an invitation to witness a slave sale.
Chapter 24
XXII
The narrator describes a morning routine including a sea bath, then accompanies Mr. ⸻ to a slave sale in Regla, where he observes the selection process and Mr. ⸻'s principle of purchasing by race, preferring the Lucumí tribe. He visits sugar storehouses, buys preserves and linen, and breakfasts with a wealthy planter who discusses Cuba's population statistics and the inaccuracy of the slave census. The chapter also covers the lottery system's impact on slaves, a cockfight, and the lasting impression of the Lopez expedition in Cuba.
Chapter 25
XXIII
The narrator provides a comprehensive analysis of Cuba's social, political, and economic conditions, categorizing the white population into Spaniards, other foreigners, and Cubans (Creoles). He discusses the despotic civil government, the power of the Captain-General, the role of the Roman Catholic Church, the status of free Blacks and slaves, and the material resources of the island. He reflects on the conflicting opinions of different classes regarding Cuba's future—independence, annexation, or protectorate—and offers his own observations as a temporary American visitor.
Chapter 26
Political Condition
This chapter details the political condition of Cuba under Spanish rule, focusing on the Royal Order of May 29, 1825, which established martial law and a state of siege. It describes the absolute power of the Captain-General, the suppression of legislative assemblies, censorship, the prohibition of native Cubans from holding office, heavy taxation, and the military occupation of the island.
Chapter 27
Religion
The chapter examines the state of religion in Cuba, focusing on the Roman Catholic Church's loss of power and wealth due to government sequestration of its property and control over clerical appointments. It discusses the historical corruption of the clergy, the rise of practical infidelity among the populace, and recent reforms in Havana led by the Jesuits. The chapter also highlights the church's struggles with enforcing Sabbath observance and the moral complications arising from racial marriage laws and slavery.
Chapter 28
Slavery
The chapter examines the institution of slavery in Cuba, analyzing the number of slaves, the legal framework governing slavery, and the gap between written laws and their enforcement. It discusses the role of Coolie labor from China, the division of power between Creoles and Spaniards, and the legal rights of slaves, including the right to self-purchase and compulsory sale. The author reflects on the uncertain future of slavery and the labor question in Cuba.
Chapter 29
Material Resources—Education
This chapter examines Cuba's natural resources, climate, and economic reliance on sugar, while critically assessing its educational system and political prospects. The narrator contrasts Cuba's material wealth—rich soil, harbors, minerals, and agricultural productivity—with its lack of educational infrastructure and political instability. He argues that Cuba's complex social composition (slaves, free blacks, Coolies, divided whites) and inexperience in self-government make successful independence unlikely, advocating instead for gradual reform under Spanish rule or protection by another power.
Chapter 30
The Cahawba — Her arrival — Last night in Havana — Leave-takings — On board the Cahawba — Getting underway — Last views of Cuba — Night at sea
The narrator describes the final day in Havana, the arrival of the steamer Cahawba, and the process of departure. He reflects on leave-taking, the strange charm of Havana, and the mixed feelings of leaving behind both the good and the bad. The chapter ends with the ship sailing out of the harbor at sunset, the last views of Cuba fading into night.
Chapter 31
XXV
The final chapter of the voyage describes the return to New York, the death of Mr. G⸺, the chaotic arrival at the wharf, a violent confrontation with hackmen, and the dispersal of passengers. The narrator reflects on the contrasts between Cuba and the United States, and the mixed emotions of homecoming.
Chapter 32
Endnotes
The author provides brief endnotes, acknowledging prior public descriptions of Mr. C⸺'s house, reporting a devastating fire between Matanzas and Cardenas that destroyed cane, mills, and stored sugar, and noting a post-return announcement of a commission to revise tariff duties.
