To Cuba and Back · Chapter
V explained
The narrator describes his arrival at Le Grand's hotel in Havana, detailing the indifferent service, the bare room, and the challenges of getting basic necessities.
What happens
The narrator describes his arrival at Le Grand's hotel in Havana, detailing the indifferent service, the bare room, and the challenges of getting basic necessities. After a refreshing bath and a delightful breakfast of tropical fruits and local dishes, he ventures into the city to deliver letters, visiting merchants' opulent counting houses. He meets Mr. Theodore Parker and Dr. S. G. Howe, and later enjoys dinner at Le Grand's, observing the lively street scenes and the formal social customs of Havana.
Themes in this chapter
Cultural Contrast Between North and South
The narrator contrasts the indifferent, relaxed service at Le Grand's with the efficiency expected in the North, and marvels at the airy, leisurely breakfasts of fruit and claret versus heavy American meals.
Travel as a Lens for Social Critique
The narrator uses his travel experiences to critique both Cuban and American customs, from hotel management to dining habits, highlighting the strangeness and charm of Havana.
Characters to notice
- Unknown Narrator
The narrator arrives at Le Grand's hotel, navigates the indifferent service, enjoys a tropical breakfast, and visits merchants' counting houses.
- Le Grand
Le Grand is the French landlord of the hotel, who prioritizes the restaurant over lodging and remains aloof from guests' needs.
- Father Antonio Cabre
Antonio, a swarthy Spanish lad, serves as the servant responsible for the narrator's room, showing him around and fetching water and towels.
- Mr. Theodore Parker
Mr. Parker is met at a counting house; he is in Havana for his health and finds the city too hot, planning to leave for Santa Cruz.
- Dr. Howe
Dr. S. G. Howe is met alongside Mr. Parker; he enjoys the warm weather and is described as a benefactor of his race.
- Cubans
Cubans are observed in the billiard room, on the Paseo, and in their formal social gatherings, speaking Spanish and maintaining distinct customs.
Key passages
“To a person unaccustomed to the tropics or the south of Europe, I know of nothing more discouraging than the arrival at the inn or hotel. It is nobody’s business to attend to you.”
For someone not used to tropical or Southern European ways, arriving at a hotel is very discouraging because no one seems responsible for helping you.
The narrator expresses his initial frustration with the indifferent service at Le Grand's hotel.
“I can truly say that I ate, this morning, my first orange; for I had never before eaten one newly gathered, which had ripened in the sun, hanging on the tree.”
This morning I ate my first truly fresh orange, one that had ripened on the tree in the sun, which I had never experienced before.
The narrator highlights the novelty and delight of eating a freshly picked tropical fruit.
“Three merchants whom I call upon, have palaces for their business. The entrances are wide, the staircases almost as stately as that of Stafford House, the floors of marble, the panels of porcelain tiles, the rails of iron, and the rooms over twenty feet high, with open rafters, the doors and windows colossal, the furniture rich and heavy; and there sits the merchant or banker, in white pantaloons and thin shoes and loose white coat and narrow necktie, smoking a succession of cigars, surrounded by tropical luxuries and tropical protections.”
The merchants I visited have palatial business premises with grand entrances, marble floors, porcelain tiles, and high ceilings, where they sit in light clothing, smoking cigars amid tropical luxury.
The narrator describes the opulent counting houses of Havana's merchants, contrasting their wealth with the relaxed attire.
