To Cuba and Back · Chapter
VI explained
The narrator describes a typical early morning in Havana, including the clanking chain gang, soldiers drilling, and the public sea baths.
What happens
The narrator describes a typical early morning in Havana, including the clanking chain gang, soldiers drilling, and the public sea baths. He then attends mass at the Cathedral, observing the sumptuous interior, the tomb of Christopher Columbus, and the irreverent behavior of altar boys and American visitors. The chapter concludes with a visit to the sacristan and the Seminario.
Themes in this chapter
Colonial Oppression and Despotism
The chain gang, with its iron bands and forced labor, exemplifies the oppressive colonial system in Cuba.
Religion and Moral Hypocrisy
The narrator contrasts the sumptuous Cathedral and the reverence for Columbus with the irreverent altar boys and the disrespectful American visitors who refuse to kneel.
Travel as a Lens for Social Critique
The narrator's detailed observations of daily life in Havana—from baths to mass—serve as a critique of both Cuban society and the behavior of foreign visitors.
Characters to notice
- Unknown Narrator
Describes his morning routine, observations of the chain gang, sea baths, and attendance at mass in the Cathedral.
- Christopher Columbus
His remains are noted to rest in the Cathedral of Havana, and the narrator reflects on his legacy.
- The Young Captain
Mentioned as part of the group of visitors at mass, though not directly named.
- Cubans
Referenced indirectly through the mention of the chain gang and the general populace.
- Spaniards
Implied through the mention of Carlists from Old Spain possibly working in the chain gang.
Key passages
“The water stands at depths of from three to five feet in the baths; and they are large enough for short swimming. The bottom is white with sand and shells. These baths are made at the public expense, and are free. Some are marked for women, some for men, and some " por la gente de color ."”
The sea baths are shallow, about three to five feet deep, with a sandy bottom, and are free public facilities. They are segregated by gender and race.
Describes the public sea baths and their racial and gender segregation.
“Every new eye turns first to the place within the choir, under that alto relief, behind that short inscription, where, in the wall of the chancel, rest the remains of Christopher Columbus.”
Visitors immediately look to the spot in the choir where the remains of Christopher Columbus are entombed.
Highlights the significance of Columbus's tomb in the Cathedral.
“The priests seem duly attentive and reverent in their manner, but I cannot say as much for the boys, of whom there were three or four, gentlemen-like looking lads, from the college, doing service as altar boys.”
The priests appeared respectful, but the altar boys from the college were careless and irreverent during the service.
Critique of the behavior of the altar boys during mass.