To Cuba and Back · Chapter
IV explained
The narrator describes the arrival in Havana at sunrise, the bustling harbor, the process of health and customs inspections, and the first impressions of the city's narrow streets, volantes, architecture, and social life.
What happens
The narrator describes the arrival in Havana at sunrise, the bustling harbor, the process of health and customs inspections, and the first impressions of the city's narrow streets, volantes, architecture, and social life.
Themes in this chapter
Colonial Oppression and Despotism
The Spanish flag, military presence, and strict entry procedures illustrate colonial control.
Cultural Contrast Between North and South
The narrator contrasts Havana's narrow streets, volantes, and customs with his New York experience.
Travel as a Lens for Social Critique
The narrator's detailed observations of Havana's people, vehicles, and architecture serve as a critique of Spanish colonial society.
Characters to notice
- Unknown Narrator
The narrator arrives in Havana, observes the harbor, undergoes customs, and drives through the city.
- Capt. Bullock
Capt. Bullock handles the health officer and reports all well before landing.
- Mr. Rodgers
Mentioned as someone the narrator misses shaking hands with before leaving the ship.
- The Cahawba
The steamer on which the narrator traveled; a fellow passenger from it accompanies the narrator in the volante.
- Le Grand
Le Grand's hotel is the destination where the volante stops.
- Christopher Columbus
Mentioned in connection with the chapel marking the first mass celebrated on the island under his auspices.
Key passages
“We are to go in at sunrise, and few, if any, are the passengers that are not on deck at the first glow of dawn.”
Almost all passengers are on deck at dawn as we prepare to enter the harbor.
Describes the anticipation of arriving in Havana.
“The streets are so narrow and the houses built so close upon them, that they seem to be rather spaces between the walls of houses than highways for travel.”
The streets are extremely narrow, more like gaps between walls than proper roads.
Highlights the cramped urban layout of Havana.
“What strange vehicles these volantes are!—A pair of very long, limber shafts, at one end of which is a pair of huge wheels, and at the other end a horse with his tail braided and brought forward and tied to the saddle...”
Volantes are unusual carriages with long flexible shafts, large wheels, and a horse whose tail is braided and tied forward.
Describes the distinctive local carriage.