To Cuba and Back · Chapter
The Cahawba — Her arrival — Last night in Havana — Leave-takings — On board the Cahawba — Getting underway — Last views of Cuba — Night at sea explained
The narrator describes the final day in Havana, the arrival of the steamer Cahawba, and the process of departure.
What happens
The narrator describes the final day in Havana, the arrival of the steamer Cahawba, and the process of departure. He reflects on leave-taking, the strange charm of Havana, and the mixed feelings of leaving behind both the good and the bad. The chapter ends with the ship sailing out of the harbor at sunset, the last views of Cuba fading into night.
Themes in this chapter
Travel as a Lens for Social Critique
The narrator's observations of Havana, the departure process, and the chain gang serve as a critique of colonial society and its injustices.
Colonial Oppression and Despotism
The permit system, conscription fears, and the prison profaning a grand site highlight the oppressive nature of Spanish colonial rule.
Cultural Contrast Between North and South
The narrator contrasts Havana's narrow streets, palm trees, and volantes with the familiar sights of New York and the Fifth Avenue.
Characters to notice
- Unknown Narrator
The narrator experiences the final day in Havana, makes last calls, and boards the Cahawba for departure.
- Capt. Bullock
Captain of the Cahawba, seen on the pier and later managing the ship's departure with quiet efficiency.
- Mr. Rodgers
Mentioned as full of kindness and good humor on board the Cahawba.
- Le Grand
The narrator reflects on Le Grand's inattentiveness but acknowledges his good table and breakfasts.
- Father Antonio Cabre
Referred to as Antonio, the narrator pities him for his fear of conscription and inability to leave the island.
- The Cahawba
The steamer that carries the narrator and others away from Cuba, central to the chapter's events.
Key passages
“The western sky is gorgeous with the setting sun, and the evening drums and trumpets sound from the encircling fortifications, as we pass the Casa Blanca, the Cabaña, the Punta, and the Morro.”
As the ship sails out, the sunset paints the sky, and military music echoes from the forts lining the harbor.
Describes the dramatic departure scene with sensory details of sight and sound.
“No winter climate of Cuba, in mountain or on plain—the climate of no land, can be compared with the ocean—the clear, bracing, saline air of ocean!”
The narrator declares that the ocean's fresh, salty air surpasses any climate on land, including Cuba's.
Expresses the invigorating quality of sea air after time spent in Cuba.
“This leave-taking is a strange process, and has strange effects. How suddenly a little of unnoticed good in what you leave behind comes out, and touches you, in a moment of tenderness!”
Leaving makes one appreciate small, previously overlooked positive aspects of a place, evoking unexpected emotion.
Reflects on the bittersweet nature of departure and the tendency to romanticize what is left behind.