The Innocents Abroad · Chapter
XXXIX explained
The narrator explores Smyrna, visiting the tomb of Polycarp, the site of one of the Seven Apocalyptic Churches, and the ancient citadel.
What happens
The narrator explores Smyrna, visiting the tomb of Polycarp, the site of one of the Seven Apocalyptic Churches, and the ancient citadel. He observes curious layers of oyster shells and broken crockery embedded in the hillside, speculating humorously on their origin. The chapter also recounts a recent Millerite ascensionist event in Smyrna, where a storm caused chaos below while those on the hill remained dry.
Themes in this chapter
Travel as Education
The narrator's observations of Smyrna's ruins, oyster shells, and local legends illustrate learning through travel.
Satire of Tourism
Humorous critique of tourists' gullibility regarding the Seven Churches site and the absurd oyster shell theories.
The Past vs. the Present
Contrast between ancient Smyrna's grandeur and modern decay, highlighted by the railway intruding on the ancient landscape.
Characters to notice
- The Narrator
Describes his visit to Smyrna's sites, his humorous theories about oyster shells, and his participation in the Millerite story.
- Jack
Mentioned as one of the 'elders of the ship’s family' who argued about the location of the Seven Churches.
- The Doctor
Implied among the group that visited the citadel and debated the oyster shell mystery.
- Dan
Likely part of the group exploring Smyrna and participating in the discussions.
- Young George
Possibly among the travelers mentioned in the chapter's activities.
Key passages
“A railway here in Asia—in the dreamy realm of the Orient—in the fabled land of The Arabian Nights —is a strange thing to think of.”
It's odd to imagine a train in the romantic, storybook East.
Reflects the narrator's surprise at modern technology in an ancient setting.
“The idea of a locomotive tearing through such a place as this, and waking the phantoms of its old days of romance out of their dreams of dead and gone centuries, is curious enough.”
A train rushing through this historic area seems to disturb the ghosts of its romantic past.
Highlights the clash between modernity and antiquity.
“When the storm finished and left everybody drenched through and through, and melancholy and half-drowned, the ascensionists came down from the mountain as dry as so many charity-sermons!”
After the storm soaked everyone below, the ascensionists descended completely dry, like untouched charity sermons.
Satirizes the Millerites' failed prophecy and their ironic good fortune.