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The Innocents Abroad · Chapter

Ascent of Vesuvius explained

The narrator describes the vibrant contrasts of Naples, from its opulent and impoverished citizens to its chaotic street life, then recounts excursions to the Blue Grotto on Capri and the Grotto of the Dog, culminating in a detailed and ard

What happens

The narrator describes the vibrant contrasts of Naples, from its opulent and impoverished citizens to its chaotic street life, then recounts excursions to the Blue Grotto on Capri and the Grotto of the Dog, culminating in a detailed and arduous ascent of Mount Vesuvius, where the party observes the stunning, multi-colored crater.

Themes in this chapter

  • Satire of Tourism

    The narrator mocks the tourist experience, from the police boarding at Capri to the critical 'imbecility' of examining ruins.

  • The Past vs. the Present

    Contrasts ancient sites like St. Paul's landing and the Temple of Serapis with modern tourism and commercialism.

  • American vs. European Culture

    Compares Neapolitan city density, wages, and prices to those in American cities, highlighting cultural differences.

Characters to notice

  • The Narrator

    Describes the sights and experiences of Naples, Capri, and Vesuvius.

  • Dan

    Landed at the same spot as St. Paul in Pozzuoli.

  • The Doctor

    Implied presence among the party during the excursions.

  • Jack

    Implied presence among the party during the excursions.

Key passages

  • Naples, with its immediate suburbs, contains six hundred and twenty-five thousand inhabitants, but I am satisfied it covers no more ground than an American city of one hundred and fifty thousand.

    Naples and its suburbs have 625,000 people but occupy less land than an American city of 150,000.

    Highlights the density of Naples compared to American cities.

  • The contrasts between opulence and poverty, and magnificence and misery, are more frequent and more striking in Naples than in Paris even.

    The stark differences between wealth and poverty are more common and noticeable in Naples than in Paris.

    Emphasizes the extreme social contrasts in Naples.

  • The entrance to the cave is four feet high and four feet wide, and is in the face of a lofty perpendicular cliff—the seawall.

    The cave's entrance is a small, four-foot square opening in a high vertical cliff by the sea.

    Describes the small and precarious entrance to the Blue Grotto.

  • It was a rough, narrow trail, and led over an old lava flow—a black ocean which was tumbled into a thousand fantastic shapes—a wild chaos of ruin, desolation, and barrenness.

    The path was a rough, narrow track across an ancient lava flow, a chaotic and desolate black landscape of twisted shapes.

    Vividly depicts the challenging terrain on the ascent of Vesuvius.