The Innocents Abroad · Chapter
XXIV explained
The narrator describes the comfort of being back on the ship in Leghorn, the suspicion of the local government that the passengers are Garibaldians, and a visit to Garibaldi.
What happens
The narrator describes the comfort of being back on the ship in Leghorn, the suspicion of the local government that the passengers are Garibaldians, and a visit to Garibaldi. He recounts a frustrating search for a hotel in Florence, then describes the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Duomo, and the Baptistery with Galileo's pendulum. He reflects on Florence's ungrateful treatment of Galileo and Dante, and praises Florentine mosaic artistry.
Themes in this chapter
American vs. European Culture
The narrator contrasts the comfort of being on the American ship with the suspicion and bureaucracy of Italian authorities.
The Past vs. the Present
Reflections on the ancient Duomo and Leaning Tower amid modern decay, and the historical mistreatment of Galileo and Dante.
Satire of Tourism
The narrator's weariness with sightseeing, the tedious galleries, and the frustrating search for the hotel in Florence.
Characters to notice
- The Narrator
Describes the comfort of the ship, the suspicion in Leghorn, and his experiences in Florence and Pisa.
- Garibaldi
Visited by some passengers, confirming government suspicions.
Key passages
“entirely appreciated, before, what a very pleasant den our stateroom is; nor how jolly it is to sit at dinner in one’s own seat in one’s own cabin, and hold familiar conversation with friends in one’s own language.”
The narrator realizes how enjoyable their cabin is and how pleasant it is to dine and converse in English with friends.
Highlights the comfort and relief of being back on the ship among familiar language and company.
“They have decided at last that we are a battalion of incendiary, bloodthirsty Garibaldians in disguise!”
The Leghorn authorities suspect the passengers are disguised revolutionaries following Garibaldi.
Illustrates the absurd suspicion and satire of local bureaucracy.
“I made them a present of it, seeing that they regarded it as a curiosity.”
The narrator gave the object to the locals because they saw it as a novelty.
Shows the narrator's dismissive attitude toward local ignorance.
“We had seen the spot, outside the city somewhere, where these people had allowed the bones of Galileo to rest in unconsecrated ground for an age because his great discovery that the world turned around was regarded as a damning heresy by the church;”
The narrator recalls that Galileo's remains were left in unhallowed ground for centuries because the church considered his discovery heretical.
Criticizes Florence and the church for their treatment of Galileo.
“We saw Dante’s tomb in that church, also, but we were glad to know that his body was not in it; that the ungrateful city that had exiled him and persecuted him would give much to have it there, but need not hope to ever secure that high honor to herself.”
The narrator notes that Dante's tomb is empty, as Florence, which exiled him, does not deserve his remains.
Expresses contempt for Florence's historical ingratitude toward Dante.