All chapters

The Innocents Abroad · Chapter

XV explained

The narrator describes a visit to Père la Chaise, the national burying-ground of France, reflecting on the great dead interred there, including Abelard and Heloise.

What happens

The narrator describes a visit to Père la Chaise, the national burying-ground of France, reflecting on the great dead interred there, including Abelard and Heloise. He recounts the story of Abelard and Heloise in detail, criticizing the romanticized sentiment surrounding their tomb. The chapter concludes with observations on French women, a farewell to Paris, and a proud assertion that American women are the handsomest in France.

Themes in this chapter

  • Religion and Hypocrisy

    The narrator criticizes the sentimental worship at Abelard and Heloise's tomb, suggesting public sentiment is misplaced and hypocritical.

  • The Past vs. the Present

    Contrasts the ancient tombs of St. Denis with the more recent but equally revered graves at Père la Chaise, reflecting on how fame and memory evolve.

  • Satire of Tourism

    The narrator mocks tourists who visit the tomb without knowing the true story, and the commercialized memento-taking.

Characters to notice

  • The Narrator

    Visits Père la Chaise, recounts the story of Abelard and Heloise, and offers opinions on French and American women.

  • The Brave Abbe

    Mentioned as the Abbe Sicard, the first great teacher of the deaf and dumb, buried at Père la Chaise.

  • Young George

    Mentioned as George W. Fulbert, the uncle of Heloise, in the story of Abelard and Heloise.

Key passages

  • Go when you will, you find somebody snuffling over that tomb. Go when you will, you find it furnished with those bouquets and immortelles.

    No matter when you visit, someone is always crying at the tomb, and it is always covered with flowers.

    Highlights the perpetual sentimental pilgrimage to Abelard and Heloise's grave.

  • I cannot cease to be astonished at the simplicity of Fulbert; I was as much surprised as if he had placed a lamb in the power of a hungry wolf.

    Abelard expresses shock at Fulbert's naivety in trusting him with Heloise.

    From Abelard's letter, illustrating his predatory intent.

  • by far the handsomest women we have seen in France were born and reared in America.

    The most beautiful women in France are actually American.

    Narrator's patriotic conclusion about American women's appearance.