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The Innocents Abroad · Chapter

Chapter XIX explained

The narrator reflects on the leisurely pace of life in Milan, contrasting European comfort with American restlessness.

What happens

The narrator reflects on the leisurely pace of life in Milan, contrasting European comfort with American restlessness. The group visits a public bathhouse, struggles with the lack of soap, and later views Leonardo da Vinci's 'The Last Supper,' critiquing the exaggerated praise of aged artworks and the pretense of interpreting expression.

Themes in this chapter

  • American vs. European Culture

    Contrasts American hurry and business cares with European comfort and leisure, highlighting differing approaches to life.

  • Satire of Tourism

    Satirizes tourists' pretentious praise of aged artworks like 'The Last Supper' and their inability to genuinely see faded beauty.

Characters to notice

  • The Narrator

    Describes the Milanese lifestyle, bathhouse incident, and critique of art appreciation.

  • Dan

    Falls asleep during billiards and struggles to ask for soap in Italian.

  • The Doctor

    Attempts to order soap in Italian with comedic results.

  • Mr. Blucher

    Referenced for his note to a Parisian landlord about missing soap.

Key passages

  • Just in this one matter lies the main charm of life in Europe—comfort. In America, we hurry—which is well; but when the day’s work is done, we go on thinking of losses and gains, we plan for the morrow, we even carry our business cares to bed with us, and toss and worry over them when we ought to be restoring our racked bodies and brains with sleep.

    Europe's appeal is its comfort; Americans, though industrious, fail to relax after work, carrying stress to bed and harming their health.

    Highlights the theme of American vs. European culture.

  • I only envy these people; I envy them their honest admiration, if it be honest—their delight, if they feel delight. I harbor no animosity toward any of them. But at the same time the thought will intrude itself upon me, How can they see what is not visible?

    The narrator envies viewers who praise faded masterpieces but questions how they perceive beauty that no longer exists.

    Satirizes tourists' uncritical admiration of aged artworks.