Roughing It · Chapters
Chapters explained
Chapter companions for Roughing It by Mark Twain.
Chapter 1
Prefatory
The author introduces the book as a personal narrative rather than a formal history, describing it as a record of several years of vagabondizing in the Far West. He notes that the volume contains information about the rise of the silver-mining fever in Nevada, an episode he witnessed firsthand, and humorously apologizes for the unavoidable leakage of facts and wisdom.
Chapter 2
Roughing It
The narrator recounts his journey westward, detailing the hardships and absurdities of frontier life, including stagecoach travel, encounters with colorful characters, and the harsh realities of mining and speculation.
Chapter 3
I
The narrator recounts his brother's appointment as Secretary of Nevada Territory and his own envy of the position, leading him to accept the role of private secretary. He describes the excitement of the impending journey west, the limited baggage allowed on the overland stage, and the dull steamboat trip from St. Louis to St. Joseph.
Chapter 4
Chapter II
The narrator and his companions depart from St. Joseph by overland stagecoach, burdened by luggage restrictions and armed with comically inadequate weapons. They travel across the Kansas plains, experiencing a sense of freedom and encountering a talkative woman passenger who dominates the journey with relentless gossip.
Chapter 5
III
The narrator describes a stagecoach journey where the thoroughbrace breaks under the weight of excess mail. After repairs, the coach is packed with mailbags, which the passengers use as a bed. The narrator reflects on the comfort of the journey, the landscape, and encounters a jackass rabbit. He also digresses into a humorous description of sagebrush and a tall tale about a camel choking on a manuscript.
Chapter 6
IV
The narrator describes the miserable breakfast at a station, the rough and profane vernacular of the plains, the switch from horses to wild mules, and the grueling stagecoach journey across the Plains. He contrasts the old overland stagecoaching with the new railroad travel, details the hierarchy of driver over hostlers and passengers, and recounts a cramped, uncomfortable night inside the coach, punctuated by the tumbling of mailbags and the Unabridged Dictionary.
Chapter 7
V
The narrator describes the beauty and freedom of the overland journey, then provides a detailed, humorous, and exaggerated portrait of the coyote, its appearance, behavior, and survival in the desert, including a comedic chase between a dog and a coyote.
Chapter 8
VI
The narrator describes the hierarchical structure of the overland stagecoach system, focusing on the roles of division-agents, conductors, and drivers. He recounts the grueling conditions faced by drivers, including double shifts, and notes the lawless character of many station-keepers. The chapter also includes a humorous anecdote from the Holy Land, where a young New Yorker named Jack compares Moses' forty-year journey across the desert to Ben Holliday's efficient stagecoach service.
Chapter 9
VII
The narrator describes arriving in Overland City after a long stretch of solitude, then continuing the journey across the South Platte River in a mud-wagon. After the wagon breaks down, he joins a buffalo hunt that ends in disaster when passenger Bemis is chased by a wounded bull and takes refuge in a tree, leading to an elaborate and humorous tale of survival. The chapter concludes with an anecdote about a notorious liar named Eckert in Siam.
Chapter 10
VIII
The narrator describes the excitement of seeing a pony-rider for the first time in broad daylight, a fleeting and almost unreal vision of speed and endurance. He also recounts crossing Scott's Bluffs Pass and encountering genuine alkali water, which he treats as a notable curiosity. The chapter includes a humorous retelling of the Indian mail robbery and massacre of 1856, with exaggerated claims of survivors.
Chapter 11
IX
The narrator describes the tense journey through hostile Indian country in the Black Hills, including a night of fear and a mysterious violent incident at a station. The chapter introduces the notorious desperado Slade, whose reputation for bloody vengeance dominates the talk of drivers and conductors.
Chapter 12
X
The narrator recounts the notorious reputation of Slade, a violent desperado of the Overland stage line, detailing his history of murder, his ruthless enforcement of order, and his eventual capture and execution of his enemy Jules. The chapter culminates in the narrator's personal encounter with Slade, whom he finds surprisingly gentle and affable.
Chapter 13
XI
The chapter recounts the execution of J. A. Slade by the Vigilance Committee in Montana, detailing his arrest, desperate pleas for his wife, and the hanging itself. The narrator reflects on the contradictory nature of desperadoes—brave in battle yet cowardly at the gallows—and quotes from Dimsdale's 'The Vigilantes of Montana' to illustrate frontier justice.
Chapter 14
XII
The narrator describes the journey through the Rocky Mountains, including the South Pass, encounters with emigrant trains, a reunion with a former friend, and observations of natural wonders like snow in August and a natural icehouse.
Chapter 15
XIII
The narrator describes their experiences in Salt Lake City, including a fine supper, observing Mormon life, meeting Gentiles, and visiting Brigham Young. They explore the city's neat streets, industries, and the Mormon crest of a Golden Beehive. The chapter ends with a visit to Brigham Young, who mistakes the narrator for a child.
Chapter 16
XIV
Mr. Street recounts his struggles with Mormon subcontractors who abandoned their contract to build telegraph lines across the desert, and how Brigham Young compelled them to fulfill their obligations, revealing Utah as an absolute monarchy under Young. The narrator also reflects on Mormon polygamy with ironic sympathy.
Chapter 17
XV
The narrator recounts a night spent in Salt Lake City among Gentiles, listening to thrilling and gruesome tales of violence against non-Mormons, including stories about Burton, Bill Hickman, and Porter Rockwell. The conversation then turns to polygamy, with a Gentile named Johnson offering a highly embellished and comedic account of Brigham Young's domestic life, including the chaos of managing dozens of wives and children, the demand for breastpins, and the absurdities of a large plural marriage household.
Chapter 18
XVI
The narrator critiques the Book of Mormon, describing it as a tedious and pretentious work that plagiarizes the Bible, and recounts its absurd historical claims, including the epic battles of Coriantumr and Shiz.
Chapter 19
XVII
The narrator departs Great Salt Lake City, reflecting on the confusion surrounding the 'Mormon question' and the high prices that signify a pioneer land. He recounts an embarrassing incident where he tips a half-breed bootblack a five-cent piece, only to be mocked for his 'emigrant' ways, and describes the comfort of ham, eggs, and a pipe during the subsequent stagecoach journey.
Chapter 20
XVIII
The narrator describes the grueling crossing of an alkali desert, contrasting the romantic anticipation with the harsh reality of extreme heat, dust, thirst, and slow progress. The journey from Camp Floyd to the desert's far side is marked by exhausting ten-hour stretches, mule teams struggling without water, and the oppressive silence of the barren landscape.
Chapter 21
XIX
The narrator describes his encounter with the Goshoot Indians in Rocky Canyon, portraying them as the most degraded people he has ever seen, comparing them unfavorably to other tribes and even to African Bushmen. He recounts a harrowing attack on a stagecoach in which a District Judge and a mortally wounded driver fend off the attackers, leading the narrator to reconsider his romanticized view of Native Americans.
Chapter 22
XX
The narrator describes crossing the Great American Desert, the desolate landscape littered with bones and wreckage, and the mysterious sink lakes of Nevada. He recounts the repeated telling of the same anecdote about Horace Greeley and Hank Monk by various travelers, culminating in a dying man who attempts to tell it and perishes. The chapter reflects on the ubiquity of the story and the end of stagecoach travel.
Chapter 23
XXI
The narrator describes the final approach to Carson City, Nevada Territory, on the twentieth day of their journey. They express regret at leaving the adventurous stagecoach life for a mundane village existence. The landscape is depicted as a barren desert with sagebrush, alkali dust, and the skeletons of dead animals. Upon arrival, they observe the small wooden town, its plaza, and meet a Mr. Harris who engages in a gunfight. The chapter then details the notorious Washoe Zephyr wind, the humble Governor's mansion, and the narrator's lodging at Mrs. O'Flannigan's ranch. The chapter concludes with a chaotic nighttime incident where a roof collapses, causing a panic over imagined tarantulas.
Chapter 24
XXII
The narrator describes his growing fascination with the Nevada territory and his decision to postpone his return east. He and Johnny K— set out on foot to see Lake Tahoe, enduring a grueling hike before finally beholding the stunning lake. They claim land, build a makeshift brush house, and enjoy the independence and restorative power of the wilderness.
Chapter 25
XXIII
The narrator and Johnny enjoy a blissful, idyllic life on their timber ranch by Lake Tahoe, spending days drifting in a boat, fishing, and marveling at the lake's extraordinary clarity. Their tranquility is shattered when a campfire accidentally ignites a devastating forest fire that destroys their provisions and property. After a night of exposure and a storm that forces them to beach their boat, they return to the old camp, eat the Brigade's supplies, and seek forgiveness in Carson.
Chapter 26
XXIV
The narrator buys a 'Genuine Mexican Plug' horse at auction, only to discover it is a vicious bucker that throws him repeatedly. He tries to sell, trade, give away, or even cripple the horse, but it survives every mishap and remains unmanageable. The chapter humorously details the horse's antics, the narrator's injuries, and the exorbitant cost of hay in Nevada.
Chapter 27
The Birth of Nevada Territory
Twain recounts the early history of Nevada, originally part of Utah as Carson County, and the tensions between Mormon settlers and American emigrants. The discovery of silver in 1858 brought a flood of Californians, leading to the formation of a temporary territorial government under Governor Roop, later supplanted by a federally appointed governor, Nye. The chapter details the struggles of the new territorial government, including financial difficulties, the generosity of Old Abe Curry in providing a legislative hall, and the absurd bureaucratic conflicts with the U.S. Treasury over expenses like printing, wood-sawing, and penknives.
Chapter 28
XXVI
The narrator succumbs to the silver fever sweeping Nevada, describing the frenzy of prospecting and the skyrocketing value of mining claims. After reading an extravagant newspaper letter extolling the fabulous wealth of Humboldt County, he and three others hastily decide to go there, fearing they will miss out on the richest mines.
Chapter 29
XXVII
The narrator describes a grueling fifteen-day, two-hundred-mile journey across the desert with three companions: a blacksmith named Mr. Ballou, two young lawyers, and himself. They buy a wagon and feeble horses, but soon find themselves pushing the wagon through sand, walking the entire way. They camp in the open, divide labor, and endure hardships including weak horses, alkaline water, and a troublesome dog. Despite the toil, the narrator finds joy in the evening campfire camaraderie and reflects on the nomadic instinct.
Chapter 30
XXVIII
The narrator arrives in Unionville, Nevada, with high hopes of finding silver and gold, only to discover that his glittering treasure is worthless mica. He learns a humbling lesson about the deceptive nature of appearances and the gap between expectation and reality.
Chapter 31
XXIX
The narrator and his partners, guided by Mr. Ballou, engage in the grueling work of prospecting for silver in the Humboldt mines. After days of exhausting labor, they discover a quartz ledge with traces of silver and gold, name it the 'Monarch of the Mountains,' and file a claim. However, the immense effort required to extract the ore—sinking shafts or digging tunnels—quickly discourages them. They abandon the mine and instead join the speculative frenzy, acquiring claims in dozens of unworked mines, accumulating vast paper wealth while sinking into debt.
Chapter 32
The Flood at Honey Lake Smith's
The narrator describes the speculative mania in Humboldt, where everyone boasts of rich mining claims based on fraudulent assays. He then recounts his journey to Esmeralda with Mr. Ballou and Ollendorff, their stay at an isolated inn, and a sudden, devastating flood that traps them for eight days with a rough crowd.
Chapter 33
XXXI
The narrator describes the misery of being trapped in a flooded inn with a monotonous Swedish singer and the menacing bully Arkansas, who terrorizes the landlord until the landlord's wife confronts him with scissors and a fierce tongue-lashing, ending his reign of terror. The chapter then recounts the group's dangerous attempt to cross the swollen river in a canoe, which capsizes, and their subsequent journey through a snowstorm, where they realize they have been following their own tracks in a circle.
Chapter 34
XXXII
Lost in a snowstorm and facing death, the narrator and his companions attempt to start a fire with pistols and by rubbing sticks, failing repeatedly. After finding matches, their last hope is extinguished by the wind. Accepting their fate, they forgive each other, renounce their vices, and await death by freezing, only to be rescued by a sudden discovery.
Chapter 35
XXXIII
The narrator, Ballou, and Ollendorff wake from a snowdrift to discover they were within fifteen steps of a stage station, having spent a miserable night in the storm. Humiliated and angry, they recover after breakfast, but the narrator's resolve to quit smoking fails when he sneaks off to smoke, only to find Ollendorff drinking and Ballou playing solitaire. They agree to abandon their reform. At the station, they learn of lost sheep drovers. They reach Carson, rest, and attend the famous landslide trial of Hyde vs. Morgan.
Chapter 36
XXXIV
The chapter describes the frequent and disastrous landslides in the Nevada mountains, and then recounts a humorous legal case where a landslide causes Tom Morgan's ranch to slide down and cover Dick Hyde's property. Hyde sues Morgan, but the referee, ex-Governor Roop, rules that the landslide was an act of God and that Morgan has the right to keep his ranch in its new location, much to the outrage of General Buncombe, who only later realizes he has been the victim of a practical joke.
Chapter 37
XXXV
The narrator describes the harsh realities of silver mining in Esmeralda, including the deceptive practices of mining boards and the financial struggles of miners. He recounts the journey to Esmeralda with Capt. John Nye, whose remarkable social skills and resourcefulness turn a dire inn stay into a comfortable one. The chapter also includes the story of Jim Townsend's tunnel, a humorous example of the absurdity of mining assessments.
Chapter 38
XXXVI
The narrator describes the grueling process of silver milling, from breaking ore to amalgamation and fire-assay, highlighting the tedious labor, the tricks of speculative mining, and his brief stint in the mill before quitting over a wage dispute.
Chapter 39
XXXVII
The narrator describes the legend of the Whiteman cement mine near Mono Lake, a secret gold-laden vein that drives the local population into frenzied, secretive expeditions. The narrator, Higbie, and Van Dorn attempt to follow Whiteman but their plans are foiled when the narrator's pack horse bolts, causing a commotion that alerts other miners. The secret is exposed, and the expedition fails, leading the group to instead camp at Mono Lake for a week's holiday.
Chapter 40
Mono Lake
The narrator describes Mono Lake as a lifeless, alkali-filled body of water in a desolate desert, highlighting its unique properties such as cleaning clothes effortlessly, its toxic effects on a dog, and the bizarre ecosystem of worms, flies, ducks, and Indians. He also details the extreme climate of the region, with snow possible even in summer, and humorous anecdotes about local customs.
Chapter 41
XXXIX
The narrator and Higbie embark on a perilous rowboat journey to the islands of Mono Lake, facing extreme thirst, a lost boat, and a violent storm that capsizes them near shore. After recovering, they go fishing in the Sierras, then return to Esmeralda. A near-fatal incident occurs when a half-tamed Indian unknowingly lights a fire under a stove packed with forgotten gunpowder, causing an explosion that narrowly misses the narrator.
Chapter 42
XL
The narrator describes the discovery of a rich silver strike at the Wide West mine, which throws the town into excitement. Higbie secretly investigates and finds a 'blind lead'—a separate, richer vein not owned by the Wide West company. Together with the mine foreman, they claim the blind lead, and the narrator revels in fantasies of wealth and future travels, only to be called away to help nurse the ill Capt. John Nye.
Chapter 43
XLI
The narrator nurses Captain Nye through a severe bout of rheumatism, enduring his profane outbursts while daydreaming about house plans, European travel, and future wealth. After an accidental fall angers Nye, the narrator leaves for Esmeralda, only to discover upon arrival that he and Higbie have lost their mining claim due to negligence. The blind lead has been relocated by others, and their chance at a fortune is gone.
Chapter 44
XLII
The narrator, having failed at mining, receives an offer to become city editor of the Virginia Daily Territorial Enterprise at twenty-five dollars a week. Despite his inexperience and past failures, he accepts out of necessity. He moves to Virginia City, adopts a more Christian costume, and receives advice from Mr. Goodman to always get absolute facts. On his first day, lacking news, he invents stories about hay wagons and a murder, filling two columns and earning Mr. Goodman's praise.
Chapter 45
XLIII
The narrator reflects on his growth as a reporter in Virginia City, describing the camaraderie and competition with fellow reporter Boggs, the challenges of gathering news, and the vibrant, chaotic boomtown atmosphere of the 'flush times' in Silverland. The chapter includes anecdotes about obtaining a school report, a humorous incident involving Boggs's drunken spree, and a vivid depiction of Virginia City's rapid growth, wealth, and social life.
Chapter 46
XLIV
The narrator describes the speculative frenzy of Virginia City's mining boom, where wildcat mines, stock manipulation, and 'salting' schemes flourished. He recounts how reporters were bribed with 'feet' of stock to publish puff pieces, how friends freely gave away shares, and how even a cellar excavation could be claimed as a mine. The chapter culminates in the scandal of the 'North Ophir' mine, salted with melted half-dollars, which ruined the tragedian McKean Buchanan.
Chapter 47
XLV
The chapter describes the booming prosperity of Virginia City during the 'flush times,' focusing on the success of the Territorial Enterprise newspaper and the mining industry. It then recounts the extraordinary fundraising efforts for the U.S. Sanitary Commission, culminating in the story of Reuel Gridley's famous Sanitary Flour Sack, which was auctioned repeatedly across Nevada and beyond, ultimately raising an estimated $150,000.
Chapter 48
XLVI
The narrator reflects on the 'flush times' in Nevada, recounting tales of sudden wealth and the nabobs it created. He shares stories of miners who struck it rich overnight, including John Smith's naive adventures in Europe and the comical misadventures of Col. Jim and Col. Jack in New York. The chapter also details the immense value of mines like Gould & Curry and Ophir, and the clever schemes of telegraph operators who used inside information to amass fortunes.
Chapter 49
XLVII
The chapter reflects on the funeral customs of Virginia City during the 'flush times,' focusing on the death of Buck Fanshaw, a representative rough and public benefactor. It details the grand preparations for his funeral and the visit of Scotty Briggs to a newly arrived Eastern minister, highlighting the rich slang of Nevada and the cultural clash between the rough miners and the refined clergyman.
Chapter 50
Desperadoism in the Flush Times
The chapter describes the culture of violence and desperadoism in early Nevada mining towns, where a man's social standing was determined by the number of people he had killed. It critiques the jury system as outdated and ineffective, using a specific murder trial as an example. The narrator also recounts an encounter with a notorious desperado and reflects on the hierarchy of fame that placed killers above orators, governors, and capitalists.
Chapter 51
XLIX
The narrator recounts a series of violent incidents in Virginia City, including the assassination of Deputy Marshal Jack Williams and a subsequent fatal shooting of Tom Reeder by George Gumbert. He excerpts newspaper reports that detail the killings and the lenient treatment of Gumbert by a justice of the peace, highlighting the lawlessness and impunity that characterized the mining town.
Chapter 52
L
The narrator recounts the story of Captain Ned Blakely, a rough and honest sailor who, after his beloved negro mate is murdered by the bully Bill Noakes in the Chincha Islands, takes justice into his own hands. Despite the lack of formal government or courts, Blakely captures Noakes, conducts a swift trial with a jury of sea-captains, and personally hangs the condemned man, reading Bible chapters and delivering a sermon before the execution. The tale illustrates the frontier spirit of simple, direct justice and is celebrated in early California.
Chapter 53
LI
The narrator recounts the chaotic demise of the Weekly Occidental, a struggling literary paper, after a drunken stranger submits a wildly absurd novel chapter that triggers a furious editorial dispute. The paper ultimately fails, and the narrator mourns the loss of his own unpublished poem, which he includes in full: 'The Aged Pilot Man,' a humorous ballad about a perilous journey on the Erie Canal.
Chapter 54
LII
The narrator describes the peak of the 'flush times' in Virginia City in 1863, detailing the bustling activity above ground and the immense underground city of the Comstock silver lode. He explains the costs and logistics of mining, including timbering, freight, and bullion shipment, and recounts a visit to a caved-in mine, illustrating the dangers and scale of the operation.
Chapter 55
LIII
The narrator finally gets Jim Blaine drunk enough to tell the story of his grandfather's old ram, but Blaine's rambling digressions about various townspeople and their peculiarities prevent him from ever reaching the actual story before he falls asleep, leaving the narrator feeling 'sold.'
Chapter 56
LIV
The narrator describes the large Chinese population in Virginia City and across the Pacific coast, detailing their industriousness, peaceful nature, and the systemic discrimination they face. He contrasts their hard work and resourcefulness with the prejudice and violence from white society, including legal injustices, mob violence, and exploitative taxes. The chapter also includes a vivid newspaper account of a night spent in Chinatown, describing opium dens, shops, lotteries, and the daily life of Chinese immigrants, while critiquing the hypocrisy of American ideals of freedom.
Chapter 57
LV
The narrator, burning with excitement over the prospect of selling a Nevada silver mine in New York, leaves Virginia City by stagecoach. The journey is marked by a humorous incident involving a vagabond with a cork leg who fakes a foot injury to get brandy. The chapter then recounts two barroom tales of drunken men, followed by a vivid description of a rain shower and a supernatural-seeming flag atop Mount Davidson, which is later revealed to be the Union flag illuminated by the setting sun. The narrator reflects on the missed opportunity to celebrate the news of Vicksburg and Gettysburg due to journalistic monopoly. Finally, he discusses the hardships of editorial work and his decision to leave Virginia City after Mr. Goodman's return, seizing the chance to go East and sell the mine.
Chapter 58
LVI
The narrator reflects on the landscapes and climates of California, contrasting its monotonous scenery and unvarying weather with the seasonal variety of the Eastern United States. He describes San Francisco's mild, equable climate, the perpetual summer of Sacramento, and the extreme heat of Fort Yuma, weaving in humorous anecdotes and observations about the region's natural features.
Chapter 59
LVII
The narrator reflects on the vanished mining towns of California's Sacramento Valley, describing the wild, all-male population of young pioneers who reveled in gold, whiskey, and violence. He recounts anecdotes of miners' extreme reactions to seeing women and children, illustrating the rough, transient, and nostalgic character of the era.
Chapter 60
LVIII
The narrator reflects on his financial ruin after the Nevada mining bubble bursts, his subsequent idle life in San Francisco, and his experience of the great earthquake of 1865. He also learns of a missed opportunity to profit from a mine sale that would have made him a millionaire.
Chapter 61
LIX
The narrator recounts his struggles as a writer for the Golden Era and the Californian, his descent into poverty and debt, and his friendship with a fellow down-and-out reporter named Blucher, including Blucher's memorable adventure with a found dime and a starving stranger.
Chapter 62
Pocket-Mining and the Ghosts of a Boomtown
The narrator describes the fascinating and obsessive practice of pocket-mining in a remote corner of California, where gold is found in concentrated nests rather than evenly distributed. He recounts the rise and fall of a mining town that vanished without a trace, leaving a handful of exiled miners, including a university-educated man who has decayed there for eighteen years. The chapter details the painstaking process of hunting for pockets, the wild swings of fortune, and the tragicomic fate of those who pursue this most alluring form of mining.
Chapter 63
LXI
The narrator reflects on the hardships of mining life and introduces Dick Baker, a gentle pocket-miner who mourns the loss of his remarkable cat, Tom Quartz. Baker recounts Tom Quartz's extraordinary mining instincts and his deep prejudice against quartz-mining after a blasting accident. The chapter ends with the narrator and his comrades failing to strike a pocket and moving on to new locations.
Chapter 64
LXII
The narrator returns to San Francisco broke, takes a job as a correspondent for the Enterprise, then accepts a position writing letters for the Sacramento Union, sailing to the Sandwich Islands on the Ajax. He describes the colorful passengers, especially the retired whaleman known as 'the Admiral,' a profane yet tenderhearted man with a talent for inventing history. A fellow passenger, Williams, cleverly out-argues the Admiral by using his own invented history against him.
Chapter 65
Arrival in Honolulu
The narrator describes the first sight of the Hawaiian Islands, the approach to Honolulu, and the striking contrasts between the tropical landscape and San Francisco. He details the architecture, flora, fauna, and people, then recounts the discomforts of tropical life—scorpions, mosquitoes, tarantulas, centipedes—and the perils of eating tamarinds.
Chapter 66
LXIV
The narrator recounts a comically disastrous horseback ride to join a party at Diamond Head and the King's Coconut Grove in Honolulu, interspersed with reflections on an ancient Hawaiian temple and the transformative impact of missionaries on the islands.
Chapter 67
LXV
The narrator describes a moonlit ride to a hill overlooking Honolulu, where the party stops at an ancient battlefield littered with human bones. He recounts a legend about Kamehameha I's battle and the Oahuans' oath, then humorously details his struggles with a hired horse named Oahu and the dubious practices of Kanaka horse-jockeys.
Chapter 68
LXVI
The narrator describes the social fabric of Honolulu, where strangers are assumed to be either whaling captains or missionaries. He observes the Saturday market, native riders, poi preparation, and the decline of traditional dances like the hula hula due to missionary influence and colonial laws. The chapter reflects on the drastic population decline of native Hawaiians since Captain Cook's arrival.
Chapter 69
LXVII
The narrator describes the Hawaiian legislature, the royal family, and the effects of missionary work on native customs, including clothing, diet, marriage, and superstitions. He contrasts the dignified Christianized nobility with lingering pagan beliefs and the absurdities of the miniature monarchy.
Chapter 70
LXVIII
The narrator describes the elaborate funeral of Princess Victoria in Honolulu, detailing the procession and the contrast between Hawaiian royal customs and those of the past, particularly the death of Kamehameha the Conqueror. The chapter includes a lengthy account of Kamehameha's final days, the rituals surrounding his death, and the tabu system.
Chapter 71
Bound for Hawaii
The narrator sails from Honolulu to the island of Hawaii aboard the schooner Boomerang, enduring cramped and unsanitary conditions with cockroaches, rats, and a noisy rooster. He describes the beauty of the moonlit sea, the arrival at Hawaii with views of Mauna Loa and Hualaiai, and a horseback ride through the Kona region's orange groves and sugar plantations.
Chapter 72
LXX
The narrator and his companions stop at a plantation in the Sandwich Islands, where they encounter a gentle, seemingly mad preacher named Simon Erickson. Erickson obsessively recounts a correspondence he had with Horace Greeley about turnips, which he believes caused international controversy and even the Battle of Sadowa. He tells a tragicomic story of a widow's son who died from his obsession with turnips, blaming a misunderstood letter from Greeley for the fatal delay.
Chapter 73
LXXI
The narrator describes the journey down a lava mountain to Kealakekua Bay, the site of Captain Cook's death. He reflects on the volcanic landscape, the frequent rainbows, and the historical events of Cook's assassination, offering a critical view of Cook's treatment of the natives. The chapter ends with the narrator waiting for his ship, hungry and weary, before finally boarding and sleeping peacefully.
Chapter 74
LXXII
The narrator visits the ruined temple of the god Lono in Hawaii, recounting the story of Obookia, the native youth who inspired Christian missionaries, and the dramatic overthrow of the ancient tabu system under King Liholiho and Queen Kaahumanu, aided by whiskey. The chapter describes the sacred grounds, the legend of Lono, the last battle for idolatry, and the arrival of Christianity.
Chapter 75
LXXIII
The narrator hires a Kanaka to canoe to the ancient ruins at Honaunau, describing the native canoe, the journey, and the sights including coral, porpoises, and surf-bathing. They visit the City of Refuge, a vast stone enclosure with a history of sanctuary for criminals and rebels, and see a petrified lava cascade and tunnels.
Chapter 76
LXXIV
The narrator describes the journey to the Kilauea volcano in Hawaii, the awe-inspiring sight of its vast crater and molten lava flows at night, and the vivid, almost supernatural spectacle of fire, steam, and color that evokes comparisons to biblical pillars of fire and the infernal regions.
Chapter 77
LXXV
The narrator and a companion named Marlette descend into the Kilauea volcano crater at night, traverse its hot and treacherous floor, and witness the spectacular North Lake of molten fire. They get lost multiple times but find their way using the sound of lava needles underfoot. The chapter also recounts the devastating 1840 eruption of Kilauea.
Chapter 78
LXXVI
The narrator recounts a horseback journey around the island of Hawaii, describing the peculiar habits of Kanaka horses that stop at every house to swap news, a reminiscence of a humiliating carriage ride with a young lady, and various scenic wonders including a waterfall, horses that chew water, and the majestic Haleakala volcano. The chapter concludes with a return to Honolulu, a visit to Maui, and a vivid description of the Iao Valley and the sunrise from Haleakala's summit.
Chapter 79
LXXVII
The narrator encounters a compulsive liar named Markiss on the island of Maui, who repeatedly interrupts conversations with increasingly absurd tall tales. Despite the narrator's attempts to avoid him, Markiss appears everywhere, spoiling social gatherings with his fabrications. Eventually, Markiss is found dead under suspicious circumstances, and a jury's verdict highlights the ironic consistency of his dishonesty.
Chapter 80
LXXVIII
The narrator describes his return to San Francisco after a leisurely stay in the Sandwich Islands, followed by his desperate decision to launch a public lecture despite his fears and lack of funds. He recounts the agonizing days of preparation, the clever enlistment of allies in the audience to laugh at his jokes, and the eventual success of the performance, which restored his confidence and finances.
Chapter 81
LXXIX
The narrator launches a lecture tour in Nevada and California, but his adventures are interrupted by a staged highway robbery on the 'divide' between Virginia City and Gold Hill. The 'robbers' are friends playing a practical joke, though the narrator is genuinely frightened and later falls ill from the cold exposure. He returns to San Francisco, then travels home via the Isthmus of Panama during a cholera outbreak, and eventually joins the Quaker City European Excursion. The chapter concludes with a moral: if you are of no account, go away from home and work.
Chapter 82
Appendix A
This appendix provides a brief sketch of Mormon history, detailing the persecution, migration, and establishment of the Mormon church under Joseph Smith and Brigham Young. It describes Brigham Young's rise to power, the founding of Salt Lake City, the creation of the Utah Territory, and the ongoing conflict with the U.S. government, including the failure of federal officials to exert authority over the Mormon community.
Chapter 83
Appendix B: The Mountain Meadows Massacre
This appendix recounts the Mountain Meadows Massacre of 1857, in which Mormon leaders, allegedly acting on a revelation from Brigham Young, orchestrated the slaughter of 120 emigrants from Missouri and Arkansas. The Mormons, disguised as Indians, attacked the wagon train, then pretended to negotiate a truce before murdering the men, women, and children. Judge Cradlebaugh attempted to prosecute the perpetrators but faced obstruction from Mormon juries and Governor Cumming. The chapter includes a summary of evidence compiled by Mrs. C. V. Waite implicating the Mormon Church in the atrocity.
Chapter 84
Appendix C: Concerning a Frightful Assassination That Was Never Consummated
The appendix presents the story of Conrad Wiegand, a harmless and delusional man who fancies himself a powerful force. It reproduces his own lengthy, grandiloquent account from the Territorial Enterprise of an alleged plot against his life after he published critical articles. Wiegand describes being assaulted and threatened by John B. Winters and others, and he interprets the events as a failed assassination conspiracy. Mark Twain adds a sardonic commentary, suggesting that Wiegand's punishment was deserved but should have been administered in a way that allowed him to flee.
Chapter 85
Endnotes
The endnotes provide clarifications, corrections, and additional context for various claims and anecdotes throughout the book, including notes on bunch-grass, vigilantes, Mormon history, the McGee assassination, bullion shipments from Virginia City, the Sutro Tunnel, and Hawaiian customs.
