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The Tour · Chapter

The Festival of Serapis at Canopus explained

During the summer festival, Alexandria is brilliantly lit and bustling with activity.

What happens

During the summer festival, Alexandria is brilliantly lit and bustling with activity. Lucius, accompanied by his uncle Catullus and tutor Thrasyllus, embarks on a grand procession to Canopus to dream at the temple of Serapis. The journey across Lake Mareotis and the Canopus Canal is filled with music, dance, and spectacle, including a hymn to Aphrodite sung by Cora. The chapter captures the opulence and religious fervor of the festival, culminating in the anticipation of the dream orgy.

Themes in this chapter

  • Travel and Discovery

    The journey from Alexandria to Canopus via the canal is a central event, filled with discovery of sights and sounds.

  • Love and Desire

    Cora's hymn to Aphrodite and the romantic encounters in the reeds highlight themes of love and longing.

  • Class and Hierarchy

    The procession of wealthy Romans, slaves, and beggars underscores the social stratification of Alexandria.

Characters to notice

  • Publius Lucius Sabinus

    The wealthy Roman master who journeys to Canopus to dream, depicted as a priest-like figure longing for his dream.

  • Caleb

    Arranges the thalamegus barge for Lucius's journey, demonstrating resourcefulness.

  • Cora

    Sings the Hymn to Aphrodite during the voyage, blushing at Lucius's compliment.

  • Catullus

    Lucius's corpulent uncle, accompanying him and praising Thrasyllus's knowledge.

  • Thrasyllus

    The grave tutor who provides historical commentary about Thonis and Helen.

  • Vettius

    Among the household slaves and freedmen hastening aboard the barge.

  • Rufus

    Also part of the household procession aboard the barge.

  • Aphrodite

    The silver statue of Aphrodite on the barge's prow, with incense burning before it, and the temple of Aphrodite Arsinoe is sighted.

Key passages

  • During those evenings of the summer festival, Alexandria was lighted more brilliantly than Rome itself.

    Alexandria outshone Rome with its summer festival illuminations.

    Sets the scene of the city's grandeur.

  • The thalamegus was painted blue and gilded, with blue-and-gilt oars, which stuck out like so many swan’s-legs.

    The barge was decorated in blue and gold, with oars resembling swan legs.

    Describes the opulent vessel.

  • All but the heart of my lord that I crave, Hark to thy slave!

    Only my lord's heart remains unattainable; hear your servant.

    Cora's plea in the hymn to Aphrodite.