Racundra’s First Cruise · Chapters
Chapters explained
Chapter companions for Racundra’s First Cruise by Arthur Ransome.
Chapter 1
Dedication
The chapter is a dedication of the book to the Estonian friends associated with the Racundra, acknowledging their connection to the vessel and the journey.
Chapter 2
Map
This chapter presents a map of the voyage, illustrating the journey of the Racundra from Riga through the Baltic Sea, including key locations such as Runö Island, Paternoster, Moon Sound, Reval, Helsingfors, Baltic Port, Hapsal, and Werder Harbour, before returning to Riga.
Chapter 3
Author’s Note
The author notes that the war caused unrecorded changes in available charts, and he has now received a new set of charts from the Estonian Admiralty, forwarded by Mr. Edward Wirgo, covering the cruising grounds among the islands, which he recommends to other sailors.
Chapter 4
Racundra’s First Cruise
The chapter introduces the Racundra, a small yacht, and her crew, setting the stage for their first cruise in the Eastern Baltic. It captures the spirit of adventure and the desire to explore, with the narrator and companions preparing for the journey.
Chapter 5
The Building of Racundra
The narrator describes the deep desire to build a boat, contrasting it with building a house. He details the years of planning for the perfect cruising boat, the collaboration with designer Otto Eggers, the frustrating building process in Riga with delays and poor workmanship, the eventual launch of the unfinished hull, and the subsequent repairs and adjustments. Despite the trials, Racundra proves to be a seaworthy and reliable vessel, exceeding expectations in the Baltic autumn.
Chapter 6
The Crew
The chapter introduces the three-person crew of the Racundra: the Cook, the Ancient Mariner, and the narrator as master and owner. The Cook is praised for her tireless work in the galley, while the Ancient Mariner, a seasoned sailor with a colorful past, brings joy and expertise to the voyage. The narrator expresses pride in his title as 'Master and Owner of the Racundra.'
Chapter 7
The Start
The chapter describes the departure of the Racundra from Riga, beginning with the final preparations and the clearing of customs. The crew, consisting of the narrator, the Ancient, and the Cook, navigates through the Mühlgraben canal, receives a lead from Captain Whalley, and clears customs with surprising ease. They proceed to the Winter Harbour, where they anchor to finish outfitting the boat. The chapter ends with a storm approaching, and the crew decides to wait it out, reflecting on the challenges and adventures ahead.
Chapter 8
Riga to Runö
The chapter describes the departure from Riga, the challenging sail through variable winds and calms, and the arrival at Runö Island. The narrator experiences a solo night watch, demonstrating his growing seamanship. Upon landing, they encounter the lighthouse-keeper, who serves as the island's informal governor, and learn about the island's unique communist-like social structure and customs. A sudden wind shift forces a hasty departure.
Chapter 9
Runö to Paternoster
The chapter describes the voyage of the Racundra from Runö Island towards the Estonian coast, with the crew navigating by compass despite significant deviations. They encounter a mysterious blinking light, which the narrator identifies using a corrected chart, confirming their position near the Paternoster Lighthouse. The Ancient shares a story of a fatal voyage, and the chapter ends with the ship entering the Moon Sound at dawn.
Chapter 10
Through the Moon Sound
The chapter describes the Racundra's passage through the Moon Sound, a treacherous stretch of water between the Estonian islands. The narrator, mindful of the ship's maiden voyage, decides to navigate as if the Racundra had a deeper draught to ensure safety. They pass various landmarks, including Paternoster Lighthouse, the island of Moon, and the Erik Stone, all while enjoying favorable wind and current. The chapter also reflects on the local Worms ships and the historical significance of the area.
Chapter 11
Worms to Pakerort
The chapter describes Racundra's challenging passage from Worms to Pakerort, encountering strong winds and heavy seas. The crew faces a broken gaff jaws, navigates through dangerous waters, and ultimately decides to abandon an attempt to reach Baltic Port, instead running before the wind to open sea to wait out the gale.
Chapter 12
Pakerort to Reval
The chapter recounts a harrowing night voyage from Pakerort to Reval in the Racundra, during which the mainsail is lost and the crew must navigate through a storm with improvised rigging. The narrator describes the psychological shift from fear to a strange enjoyment once the decision to press on is made, the camaraderie and calm of the crew, the struggle to stay awake at the tiller, and the eventual arrival at Reval after a tense passage through squalls and tricky waters.
Chapter 13
Port of Reval
The chapter describes the arrival of Racundra at Reval, the narrator's deep affection for the town, its history and character, the local market, and the ship's five-day stay for repairs and fitting out before departing for Finland.
Chapter 14
Reval to Helsingfors
The chapter recounts the voyage from Reval to Helsingfors, beginning with the departure on August 30th after repairs. Mr. Wirgo joins as a passenger, but falls ill early on. The journey is marked by a calm night, a dense fog that obscures navigation, and confusion over a lightship's signals. After the fog lifts, they continue north, eventually sighting the Aransgrund light-vessel and arriving at Helsingfors, where a pilot guides them in. The narrator reflects on the challenges of navigation and the local smuggling lore.
Chapter 15
Helsingfors: Swinging the Ship
The chapter describes the arrival of Racundra at Helsingfors, where the narrator and Wirgo go ashore. The narrator spends a day with friends, and the next morning Commander Boyce guides him through the harbour. The Ancient comes ashore for supplies. The main event is the swinging of the ship to calibrate the compass, a process involving a dolphin and a Finnish expert. After the task is completed, they depart.
Chapter 16
Helsingfors to Reval
The chapter recounts Racundra's passage from Helsingfors to Reval, beginning with a strong easterly wind and a rising barometer. The crew navigates through the buoyed channel, past Grohara Island, and across the Gulf of Finland, encountering a heavy swell and a broken mizzen peak halyard. They sail without the mizzen, enjoying an exhilarating but cold journey. As night falls, they face the challenge of beating into Reval with unreliable sidelights, which keep going out in the wind. They finally arrive at dawn, tie up at a buoy off the Yacht Club mole, and sleep after a tiring night.
Chapter 17
Reval to Baltic Port
The chapter describes the voyage from Reval to Baltic Port, beginning with a delay for provisions and equipment. The crew sets out with a light S.E. wind, but soon encounters a calm. The Cook demands the use of the motor, which fails to work, causing frustration. The Ancient Mariner shares tales of his sailing days on the Thermopylae. The night is calm and beautiful, contrasting with a previous storm. They pass Pakerort and anchor at Roogowik, where an Estonian Navy ship shines a searchlight on them. They finally reach Baltic Port at 1:30 a.m., finding the harbour altered and tie up to a new quay.
Chapter 18
Old Baltic Port and New
The narrator recalls his first visit to Baltic Port in the Kittiwake, expecting a busy naval port but finding a sleepy, charming harbour. He describes the local life, the harbourmaster and his wife, the old fort built by Peter the Great, and the peaceful atmosphere. The chapter contrasts this with the modern changes that have transformed the port, making it busier and less idyllic.
Chapter 19
The Roogö Islands
The narrator recounts a previous visit to the Roogö Islands in Kittiwake, describing the Swedish-speaking inhabitants, their customs, and the challenges of communication. The chapter details encounters with locals, a humorous pig, and the island's landscape, including a stranded ship and the village of Lillaby.
Chapter 20
The Ship and the Man
While sailing from Baltic Port, the narrator and his crew anchor off the coast of Dagorort Peninsula near a place called Ermuiste. The narrator rows ashore to investigate a ruined pier and discovers an unfinished ship hidden among the pines. He finds a nearby cabin where an old man, the ship's builder, lives. The old man provides information about the coast and anchorage. The narrator reflects on the old man's dream of finishing the ship and the passage of time.
Chapter 21
Baltic Port to Spithamn
The chapter recounts the Racundra's journey from Baltic Port to Spithamn, detailing the challenges of light winds, navigation, and the decision to seek shelter at Spithamn. The crew anchors near a schooner and cutter, and the narrator goes ashore to explore the village, meeting Anders Ringberg, a local Swede, and observing the local boat-building and firewood trade. The chapter ends with a peaceful night at anchor, with the Racundra's riding light serving as a beacon for the other vessels.
Chapter 22
Spithamn to Ramsholm
On September 8th, the Racundra departs Spithamn with the goal of navigating the narrow and winding channel between Worms and the mainland, a challenging passage according to the Baltic Pilot. The crew spends twelve tedious hours beating against a fitful S. wind, meeting numerous sailing vessels running free in the opposite direction. They make jam and marmalade, with a humorous anecdote about the accidental discovery of the marmalade recipe on Kittiwake. As the day progresses, they realize they cannot reach the channel before dark and anchor between two shoals north of Ramsholm, in a secluded spot with no lights visible, feeling like Noah's Ark in the isolation.
Chapter 23
Ramsholm to Hapsal Through the Nukke Channel
The chapter describes the crew's decision to attempt the Nukke Channel against the wind, a feat local sailors avoid. After a tense four-hour beat, they succeed and anchor at Hapsal, where they explore the town, visit the ruined castle, and observe the local culture and unique shallow-water boats.
Chapter 24
Hapsal to Heltermaa (Island of Dagö)
The chapter describes the Racundra's departure from Hapsal, a difficult passage through the Moon Sound with tricky currents and reefs, and an eventual arrival at Heltermaa on Dagö Island. The narrator then goes ashore to provision, encountering language barriers and local hospitality while searching for milk and eggs.
Chapter 25
Toledo of Leith
The narrator recalls a previous visit to Heltermaa, where he encounters the wreck of the British steamship Toledo of Leith, now inhabited by Captain Konga. Konga has made the wreck his home, living a self-sufficient and contented life, fishing, netting, and hunting. The narrator spends two nights with him, hearing tales of the Estonian coast and its pirates, and is impressed by Konga's timeless, joyful approach to life. Eventually, Konga helps the narrator catch a train at Hapsal, and later succeeds in refloating the Toledo, though the narrator feels a pang of regret that Konga's unique home is lost.
Chapter 26
From the Island of Dagö to the Island of Moon
The chapter recounts the narrator's journey from Dagö to Moon, detailing encounters with locals, the politics of language, the discovery of fossils, and the anticipation of autumn storms. The crew's departure is delayed by weather, but they finally set sail, meeting the Baltabor and racing to Kuivast, where they anchor and observe the local culture, including the Gates of Moon and the national costume of the women.
Chapter 27
Kuivast to Werder
The chapter describes the journey from Kuivast to the harbour of Werder (Wirtsu), where the crew seeks shelter from an equinoctial storm. They anchor safely, endure violent weather, and interact with local sailors and peasants. The narrator fishes, meets an elderly Robinson Crusoe-like boat owner, and observes the struggles of schooners in the gale. The chapter highlights the harsh conditions and the resilience of those who navigate the Baltic coast.
Chapter 28
Seal Hunters from Runö
The narrator, delayed by a gale, decides to visit the seal hunters from Runö, whom he had promised to photograph. He follows them across the island to their ship, the Juba, a traditional vessel with a unique rig. He photographs the ship and its crew, learns about their self-sufficient lifestyle and ancient traditions, and exchanges gifts before parting. The hunters predict a storm that night and fair weather in the morning, which proves accurate.
Chapter 29
Werder to Riga
The chapter describes the final leg of Racundra's journey from Werder back to Riga. After a period of waiting, the crew decides to set sail on September 25th, navigating through the Sound and past Runö Island. They encounter strong winds and rough seas, forcing them to reef the sails heavily. The night is tense as they approach the Dvina entrance, with the narrator expressing regret and fear, but Racundra's steady handling provides comfort. They arrive at Riga on September 26th, only to face bureaucratic absurdities from customs officials before finally being cleared to lay up for the winter.
Chapter 30
Appendix
This appendix provides a detailed technical description of the yacht Racundra, including her dimensions, rigging, and the thoughtful design of her cabin and storage spaces, emphasizing her suitability as a comfortable and functional floating home and workspace.
Chapter 31
Endnotes
The endnotes provide additional commentary on the primitive and modern boats observed along the coast, and clarify the relationship between wind and current in the channels, deferring to the local sailors' practical understanding.
Chapter 32
List of Illustrations
This chapter is a list of illustrations that document the journey of the Racundra, including photographs and maps of the boat, its crew, and the various locations visited along the Baltic coast.
