# To Cuba and Back — Chapters explained

> Chapter companions for To Cuba and Back by Richard Henry Dana Jr..

- [Dedication](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/dedication.md): The author dedicates the narrative of his short absence to the Gentlemen of the Saturday Club.
- [To Cuba and Back](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/to-cuba-and-back.md): The narrator recounts the initial departure from New York, the journey across the Gulf Stream, and the first impressions of Cuba, including the arrival in Havana and early observations of the landscape, people, and colon
- [I](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/i.md): The narrator departs from New York on the steamship Cahawba on February 12, 1859, describing the bustling pier, the diverse passengers, and the quiet efficiency of the ship's departure. The voyage begins with a snowy, co
- [II](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/ii.md): The narrator describes the routine and discipline aboard the steamer Cahawba, the crossing of the Gulf Stream, and the sighting of the Florida coast. Observations are made on the effects of slavery and despotism on Cuban
- [III](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/iii.md): The narrator describes a warm day at sea approaching Cuba, observing the diverse passengers aboard, including Northern and Cuban children. They sight the coast of Cuba, the Pan of Matanzas, and eventually Havana from the
- [IV](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/iv.md): The narrator describes the arrival in Havana at sunrise, the bustling harbor, the process of health and customs inspections, and the first impressions of the city's narrow streets, volantes, architecture, and social life
- [V](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/v.md): The narrator describes his arrival at Le Grand's hotel in Havana, detailing the indifferent service, the bare room, and the challenges of getting basic necessities. After a refreshing bath and a delightful breakfast of t
- [VI](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/vi.md): The narrator describes a typical early morning in Havana, including the clanking chain gang, soldiers drilling, and the public sea baths. He then attends mass at the Cathedral, observing the sumptuous interior, the tomb 
- [VII](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/vii.md): The narrator observes the presence of Coolies in Cuba, noting their importation and conditions. He visits the Jesus del Monte area, contrasting the squalid outskirts of Havana with the grand view from the Bishop's reside
- [VIII](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/viii.md): The narrator describes a sleepless night due to a mask ball next door, followed by a Sunday morning invitation to dine with the Bishop of Havana. At the dinner, he meets the Bishop of Puebla and other clergy, discussing 
- [IX](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/ix.md): The narrator visits the Belen (Bethlehem) Jesuit college in Havana, observing its operations, the discipline of the order, and the contrast between the Jesuits' austere personal lives and their lavish altar vestments. He
- [X](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/x.md): The narrator travels by steamer from Havana to Matanzas, observing the phosphorescent harbor at night. Upon arrival, he explores Matanzas, noting its architecture and foreign influences. He obtains a letter of introducti
- [XI](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xi.md): The narrator takes a train from Matanzas into the Cuban interior, observing the landscape, vegetation, and sugar plantations. He describes the palm, cocoa, banana, and plantain trees, the cane fields, and the slaves labo
- [First Day on a Sugar Estate](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xii.md): The narrator describes his first full day on La Ariadne sugar plantation, detailing the division of labor, treatment of enslaved workers, the role of the American engineer, and the economic calculations of sugar producti
- [XIII](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xiii.md): The narrator describes his third day at La Ariadne plantation, detailing the routine of plantation life, the flora and fauna, and the effects of foreign education on Cuban planters. He also recounts a visit from M. Bourg
- [XIV](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xiv.md): The narrator reflects on the demanding life of a plantation master, then enjoys a peaceful afternoon ride to the Santa Catalina coffee estate, encountering the proprietor and a group of children. After returning, he witn
- [XV](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xv.md): The narrator stays at Ensor's hotel in Matanzas, visits the Cumbre and Yumurí valley, and spends an evening with the cosmopolitan family of Mr. C⸺, learning that the Thirty Millions Bill has not passed.
- [XVI](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xvi.md): The narrator departs Matanzas by railroad for Havana, observing the Cuban interior and reflecting on the island's economic, political, and social conditions. He notes the sugar industry's profitability despite heavy taxe
- [XVII](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xvii.md): The narrator visits Havana, encounters Dr. and Mrs. Howe, learns of the trial of Señor Maestri for disrespect to the Captain-General, and reflects on the Creole interest in the case as a symbol of centralized power. The 
- [XVIII](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xviii.md): The narrator describes a Sunday in Havana, beginning with morning sea baths and observing the chain gang. He attends Mass at the Belén church, noting the reverent Jesuit manner and the congregation's social and racial mi
- [XIX](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xix.md): The narrator describes a drive over the Paseo de Tacón to the Cerro, meeting the Bishop and the Count de la Fernandina, and visiting the Count's elegant villa. He then visits the Hospital of San Juan de Dios, noting its 
- [XX](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xx.md): The narrator attends a bullfight in Havana, describing the cruelty and ineptitude of the spectacle, the suffering of the animals, and the crowd's barbaric excitement. He contrasts the behavior of the spectators with the 
- [Habits of the Cubans, Visit to the Bishop, and the Coolie Mart](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xxi.md): The narrator observes Cuban customs such as the distinctive 'P—s—t!' call and universal smoking. He visits the Bishop at Jesus del Monte to pay parting respects, discussing the Thirty Millions Bill and religious institut
- [XXII](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xxii.md): The narrator describes a morning routine including a sea bath, then accompanies Mr. ⸻ to a slave sale in Regla, where he observes the selection process and Mr. ⸻'s principle of purchasing by race, preferring the Lucumí t
- [XXIII](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xxiii.md): The narrator provides a comprehensive analysis of Cuba's social, political, and economic conditions, categorizing the white population into Spaniards, other foreigners, and Cubans (Creoles). He discusses the despotic civ
- [Political Condition](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/political-condition.md): This chapter details the political condition of Cuba under Spanish rule, focusing on the Royal Order of May 29, 1825, which established martial law and a state of siege. It describes the absolute power of the Captain-Gen
- [Religion](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/religion.md): The chapter examines the state of religion in Cuba, focusing on the Roman Catholic Church's loss of power and wealth due to government sequestration of its property and control over clerical appointments. It discusses th
- [Slavery](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/slavery.md): The chapter examines the institution of slavery in Cuba, analyzing the number of slaves, the legal framework governing slavery, and the gap between written laws and their enforcement. It discusses the role of Coolie labo
- [Material Resources—Education](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/material-resources-education.md): This chapter examines Cuba's natural resources, climate, and economic reliance on sugar, while critically assessing its educational system and political prospects. The narrator contrasts Cuba's material wealth—rich soil,
- [The Cahawba — Her arrival — Last night in Havana — Leave-takings — On board the Cahawba — Getting underway — Last views of Cuba — Night at sea](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xxiv.md): The narrator describes the final day in Havana, the arrival of the steamer Cahawba, and the process of departure. He reflects on leave-taking, the strange charm of Havana, and the mixed feelings of leaving behind both th
- [XXV](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/xxv.md): The final chapter of the voyage describes the return to New York, the death of Mr. G⸺, the chaotic arrival at the wharf, a violent confrontation with hackmen, and the dispersal of passengers. The narrator reflects on the
- [Endnotes](https://www.betterreads.online/discover/to_cuba_and_back_se/chapters/endnotes.md): The author provides brief endnotes, acknowledging prior public descriptions of Mr. C⸺'s house, reporting a devastating fire between Matanzas and Cardenas that destroyed cane, mills, and stored sugar, and noting a post-re

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