# In Benares explained — The Story of My Experiments with Truth

> Chapter companion for The Story of My Experiments with Truth by Mahatma Gandhi.

## What happens

Gandhi describes his journey from Calcutta to Rajkot, with a stop in Benares. He reflects on the hardships of third-class railway travel in India, contrasting it with Europe and South Africa, and calls on educated men to travel third class to reform conditions. In Benares, he stays with a panda, performs ritual ablutions in the Ganges, and visits the Kashi Vishvanath temple, where he is deeply pained by the dirt, noise, and commercialism. He recounts a confrontation with a panda over dakshina, and later pays a brief visit to Mrs. Besant.

## Themes in this chapter

### Self-Discipline and Simplicity

Gandhi chooses third-class travel and minimal spending (Rs. 31 for the journey), reflecting his commitment to simplicity and self-discipline.

### Religion and Interfaith Dialogue

Gandhi's visit to Kashi Vishvanath temple leads to a critique of the hypocrisy and irreligion he observes, emphasizing the inner search for God over external rituals.

### Social Justice and Anti-Colonialism

Gandhi highlights the neglect of third-class passengers by the railway authorities, linking it to broader issues of inequality and colonial indifference.

## Character check-ins

### Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi

Narrator and protagonist; travels third class, visits Kashi Vishvanath temple, and calls for reform of railway conditions.

### Mrs. Besant

Gandhi visits her in Benares to pay respects after her illness.

## Key lines

> The third class compartments are practically as dirty, and the closet arrangements as bad, today as they were then.

Third-class train compartments remain just as dirty and poorly maintained as in the past.

_Gandhi criticizes the persistent lack of improvement in third-class railway facilities._

> I searched here for God but failed to find Him.

I looked for God at the Jnana-vapi but did not find Him.

_Gandhi expresses his spiritual disappointment with the temple's atmosphere._

> The woes of mahatmas are known to mahatmas alone.

Only those who are considered great souls truly understand their own sufferings.

_Gandhi reflects on the irony of being a 'mahatma' while unable to have a peaceful darshan._

## Links

- HTML: https://www.betterreads.online/discover/the_story_of_my_experiments_with_truth_se/chapters/part-iii-xx-in-benares
- Book: https://www.betterreads.online/discover/the_story_of_my_experiments_with_truth_se
- All chapters: https://www.betterreads.online/discover/the_story_of_my_experiments_with_truth_se/chapters