# XXIX explained — The Innocents Abroad

> Chapter companion for The Innocents Abroad by Mark Twain.

## What happens

The narrator describes the quarantine of the ship in Naples, the annoyance of local haggling and beggars, the cruel treatment of the singer Frezzolini at the San Carlo theatre, the ascent of Mount Vesuvius, and the religious frauds of St. Januarius's blood liquefaction and the Madonna's shaving procession.

## Themes in this chapter

### Satire of Tourism

The narrator's ironic commentary on the fatigue and absurdity of the Vesuvius ascent and the haggling with locals.

### Religion and Hypocrisy

Exposure of the fraudulent liquefaction miracle and the shaving procession as examples of religious imposture.

### Colonialism and Otherness

The narrator's critical and prejudiced view of Neapolitan character, highlighting cultural otherness.

## Character check-ins

### The Narrator

Describes the quarantine, the Vesuvius expedition, and observations of Neapolitan character.

### Frezzolini

The aging singer who is cruelly hissed and jeered at the San Carlo theatre.

### Those Pompeiians

Mentioned in the context of the Neapolitan populace and their behavior.

### Three Hundred Happy Priests

Implied in the description of the religious frauds and the priests collecting money.

## Key lines

> We that came by rail from Rome have escaped this misfortune. Of course no one is allowed to go on board the ship, or come ashore from her. She is a prison, now.

Those of us who traveled by train from Rome avoided the quarantine; the ship is now a prison for its passengers.

_Describes the quarantine situation in Naples._

> We had one magnificent picture of Naples from a high point on the mountain side. We saw nothing but the gas lamps, of course⁠—two-thirds of a circle, skirting the great Bay⁠—a necklace of diamonds glinting up through the darkness from the remote distance⁠—less brilliant than the stars overhead, but more softly, richly beautiful.

From a high point on Vesuvius, we saw a stunning view of Naples' gas lamps forming a glittering semicircle around the bay, like a diamond necklace.

_Describes the night view of Naples during the ascent._

> It was the cruelest exhibition⁠—the most wanton, the most unfeeling. The singer would have conquered an audience of American rowdies by her brave, unflinching tranquillity...

The treatment of Frezzolini was the cruelest and most heartless display; her calm dignity would have won over even American ruffians.

_Critique of the audience's behavior at the San Carlo theatre._

## Links

- HTML: https://www.betterreads.online/discover/the_innocents_abroad_se/chapters/xxix
- Book: https://www.betterreads.online/discover/the_innocents_abroad_se
- All chapters: https://www.betterreads.online/discover/the_innocents_abroad_se/chapters