# XLIX explained — The Innocents Abroad

> Chapter companion for The Innocents Abroad by Mark Twain.

## What happens

The narrator describes their swims in the Sea of Galilee, their disdain for Pliny and St. Paul for always having preceded them, and the appearance of a flamboyantly armed Arab guard who turns out to be a revenue scheme of the Sheik of Tiberias. The chapter also reflects on the view from Mount Tabor, the historical plain of Esdraelon, and the village of Deburieh.

## Themes in this chapter

### Travel as Education

The narrator reflects on historical and biblical sites, using his journey to learn about the past and critique his own expectations.

### Satire of Tourism

The narrator mocks the pretensions of the Arab guard, the reliance on guidebooks, and the disappointment of famous sites like Mount Tabor.

### The Past vs. the Present

The narrator contrasts the glorious historical battles on the Plain of Esdraelon with the mundane reality of the modern landscape and the 'vanity' of moonlight.

## Character check-ins

### The Narrator

Describes his swims, his irritation with Pliny and St. Paul, and his interactions with the guard.

### Jack

Implied as part of the group; the narrator refers to 'eight armed Christians' including himself and presumably Jack.

### The Doctor

Implied as part of the group; the narrator refers to 'eight armed Christians' including himself and presumably the Doctor.

### Dan

Implied as part of the group; the narrator refers to 'eight armed Christians' including himself and presumably Dan.

### Young George

Implied as part of the group; the narrator refers to 'eight armed Christians' including himself and presumably Young George.

### Judge Oliver

Implied as part of the group; the narrator refers to 'eight armed Christians' including himself and presumably Judge Oliver.

### Mr. Blucher

Implied as part of the group; the narrator refers to 'eight armed Christians' including himself and presumably Mr. Blucher.

### Ferguson

Implied as part of the group; the narrator refers to 'eight armed Christians' including himself and presumably Ferguson.

## Key lines

> We took another swim in the Sea of Galilee at twilight yesterday, and another at sunrise this morning. We have not sailed, but three swims are equal to a sail, are they not?

We swam in the Sea of Galilee twice, and I jokingly suggest that three swims count as a sail.

_The narrator's playful tone about their activities._

> It always and eternally transpires that St. Paul has been to that place, and Pliny has 'mentioned' it.

Every place we visit has already been visited by St. Paul or mentioned by Pliny, which annoys me.

_The narrator's frustration with being unable to discover a place untouched by historical figures._

> If one fantastic vagabond could protect eight armed Christians and a pack of Arab servants from all harm, surely that detachment could protect themselves.

If one absurd guard can protect us all, then we should be able to protect ourselves without him.

_The narrator's skeptical argument against hiring the guard._

> The magic of the moonlight is a vanity and a fraud; and whoso putteth his trust in it shall suffer sorrow and disappointment.

The romantic idea of moonlight summoning ghosts is false and leads only to disappointment.

_The narrator's cynical reflection on the imagined phantom pageant of ancient armies._

## Links

- HTML: https://www.betterreads.online/discover/the_innocents_abroad_se/chapters/xlix
- Book: https://www.betterreads.online/discover/the_innocents_abroad_se
- All chapters: https://www.betterreads.online/discover/the_innocents_abroad_se/chapters