# E: Ascents of the Matterhorn explained — Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69

> Chapter companion for Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 by Edward Whymper.

## What happens

This chapter provides a chronological table of ascents of the Matterhorn from 1865 to 1880, listing the names of climbers, guides, routes taken, and brief remarks. It includes the first ascent by Lord Francis Douglas, D. Hadow, Charles Hudson, and Edward Whymper with guides Michel Croz and Peter Taugwalder, as well as subsequent ascents by various parties from both the Zermatt and Breuil sides.

## Themes in this chapter

### Conquest and Perseverance

The chapter chronicles the repeated attempts and successful ascents of the Matterhorn, highlighting human determination to conquer a formidable peak.

### Exploration and Discovery

The table records the discovery of new routes, such as the easier route found in 1867 and the first ascent from the Z'Mutt side in 1879.

### Danger and Mortality

The first ascent party included members who later perished in the Matterhorn Disaster, underscoring the risks of mountaineering.

## Character check-ins

### Edward Whymper

Participant in the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 and later ascent for photography in 1874.

### Jean-Antoine Carrel

Guide on multiple ascents including the second ascent in 1865 and many subsequent climbs.

### Michel Croz

Guide on the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865.

### Peter Taugwalder

Guide on the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 and later ascents.

### Lord Francis Douglas

Member of the first ascent party in 1865.

### Rev. Charles Hudson

Member of the first ascent party in 1865.

### Mr. Hadow

Member of the first ascent party in 1865.

### Professor Tyndall

Made an ascent in 1868, going up the Breuil side and down the Zermatt side.

## Key lines

> 1865 . 1 July 13 – 15 Lord Francis Douglas. D. Hadow. Charles Hudson. Edward Whymper. Zermatt (or Northern route). Guides—Michel Croz, Peter Taugwalder père, Peter Taugwalder fils.

The first recorded ascent of the Matterhorn took place from July 13 to 15, 1865, via the Zermatt route, with climbers Lord Francis Douglas, D. Hadow, Charles Hudson, and Edward Whymper, guided by Michel Croz and the two Peter Taugwalders.

_This entry marks the historic first ascent of the Matterhorn._

> 1879 . 191 Sept. 2 – 3 A. F. Mummery. Z’Mutt side. Alexander Burgener, J. Petrus, and A. Kentinetta. Mr. Mummery was the first to ascend the Matterhorn from the side of the Z’Mutt Glacier.

In 1879, A. F. Mummery became the first to climb the Matterhorn from the Z'Mutt Glacier side, accompanied by guides Alexander Burgener, J. Petrus, and A. Kentinetta.

_This ascent opened a new route on the mountain._

## Links

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